F 908 
.L55 
1881 



''.♦''■^S?'' 



/:%i 




:^3SK ETCHES 



EXCURSION 



V 



n^Hlaska 



REV, A. L. LINDSLEY. D. D. 



^.7 



£>3 




Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 



BY 

A. I,. I.lN!)SI,i:V. 



I. .\ \'ovA(;t. ix) Sn KA.- Historical and Dc.scn'iJtiAe. 

II. (iKOdRAl'HK Al,. ("I.IMAHC-. POPUI.AIION. 

III. SouiHKKN Alaska, l^lans for improving the Natives. 

I\'. .Si:(;(;f:s]'ioNs coNci'.KMXc .ScHf-oi.s and Bni.DINCS — 
Wavs and Means. 

V. Relations of ihk Pkopli: of thk Unitki^ States 

TO THE CJlVILIZATION OF IHK N AI'IVE AlASKAN S. — A Letter 

addressed to President Hayes. 

VT. Rei'ori' lo iHK S^•^"OI) of ih]-: Coeumdia, 1880. 

VII. 1'ki.si:ni ("oxiiFi'ioN of fhk Work, Ma\', 1881.— P>y S. 
H. Vovin<:. I'ovt Wraui^^el, Alaska. 



PRl'.FATORV. 
Ed'orts for l/ic Ininhlitiiioii of Cirilizaiioii into J/ciska. 

U])Oii c.\tciKlin<;- the sovcrcitrnty of ilic United States over Alaska, the mili- 
tary, judiciak and jiosi ofti.-e dcparlinents (or thai Territory centred at Port- 
lan(k Oregon. The I-I\erutive Committee of the Presbytery of Oregon, whose 
chairman was (and is still) pa-^tor of the tliurch in that city, was thus placed in 
the most faNorahle situation lor gathering information touching the character 
and condition of ihe inhaliilaiUs. Interviews were held with lC\-.Secretary 
Seward and parlw mi their rt-tuni horn Alaska: and the officers of the doxern- 
ment, iiiilitarv ami ri\il. have alwa.ys la'cn rea<ly tn communicate facts, the 
knowledge of which \'.a> iiidispeiisahle in older iode\ise any ellicit-nl measures 
<«»r the im|)roveineiit of the i)eo]>le. 

The situation wa-- iVoiii lime to time maile known to both the Foreign and 
I lome Boards of the (-hurih, and encouraging responses came back ; but no one 
was found lo enter the iintrieil region. The 1 K)mc luiard appointed one mi'-'- 
.sionary win) declined without e\er xi^iting it. 



Sketches of an Excursion io Southern Alaska. 



A scIiodI and regular religious meetings were started at P'ort Wrangel, with 
the expectation which Gen. Howard and the writer had fostered, that they 
would be sustained by the American people. And when the time for the re- 
moval of the troops from Alaska approached, the writer could no longer hesitate. 
The emergency dictated immediate action, or the surrender of all that had been 
attempted by us. 

The eftbris wiiich were l)cgun in the mother Presbytery of (Jregon, were con- 
tinued when the Synod of the (.Columbia was organized. Under the authority 
of the Synod, a memorial was forwarded to the General Assembly of 1877, 
setting forth some of the facts, and praying for the Church's intervention for 
that neglected Territory. No doubt could exist but that the Assembly would 
take decisive action. But that memorial was kept back. It was in the Assem- 
buy but was not laid before it. The writer had dispatched a member of his 
church, J. C. Mallory, Jr., to assume the charge of the mission and the school, 
to take a survey of the situation, esi)ecially at Sitka andFort Wrangel. Mr. 
.Mallory had the support of the military and the promise of an appointment from 
the Indian Bureau. The failure of the action in the Assembly left the entire 
charge, including rents, salaries and outfits in individual hands. And Mrs. Mc- 
I'arland another member of the w riter's church was added to the misssionary 
force, and sent thither under the same urgency of the situation. The individual 
responsibility of the writer did not cease until the following year 1878. 

Information respecting. the condition of the ^Vlaskans was very limited, and 
lacked the defmiteness which was indispensable in the prosecution of the nii.-i- 
sionary work. Mr. Mallory's reports we're useful, but he early left the field. 
The letters of missionaries were necessaril)- confineel to a very limited area. 
Rev. S. Jackson, D. IJ.,had, at the writer's request, accompanied Mrs. McFai- 
land to Fort Wrangel, where he spent a few days and returned by the same 
tri]) of the steamer to I'ortland. To obtain further information the Home 
Board designated tlie writer to make a visit to Southern Alaska to survey the 
ground and report. 

Some of the results of a very arduous and conscientious exploration are em- 
bodied in the following pages. The sketches and reports were duly forwarded 
to the Board of Home Missions, under whose commission the writer was act- 
ing. The third report was made to l)oth the .Synod and Board, which will 
account for some repetitions. 

The .Synod of the Columbia has requested the publication of these docu 
ments in view of their permanent value as belonging to the history of the in- 
troduction of christian civilization into Alaska, and for the information of the- 
public. The third report was printed in the Synod's minutes, 1879. The sub- 
istance of the fifth report addressed in the form of a Letter to the President of 
the United States, was published at the Executive Mansion under the Pres- 
dent's auspices. The other reports have been multiplied by copying anil 
and sent to influential persons. But the circulation has been quite limited. 
In preparing thcin for the present publication they have been considerably 
abridged. 



A Voyage to Sitka.- -Historical atid Descriptive. 3 

It it due to the cause to s:iy tliat the observation and experience accruetf 
.since these pages were written, have required no essential change in the viows 
taken, or plans proposed. A few modifications in estimates have ijcen made 
,ind a few geographical descriptions improved. 

In the original preparation as well as in the sul)se([uent revision, the author 
has had the valualile assistance of Rev. S. W. Young, the missionary bishi^j) 
<A Alaska. 



REPORT NO. I. 
Voyage to Sitka. -Historical and Descriptive. 

I'OKTLAM), OrKGON. ^-J**i*? rO, 1879. 

To THE REV. CYRUS DICKSON, D.D., LL.D.. 
Corresponding Secretary of the W. 1 1. M. of the PresbyterianChurch, U.S.A. 

PRKLLMIXARY. 

I have the honor to report that in the fulfillment of the Ijoard's commission 
I made the journey to Alaska, spent several weeks there, embracing every op- 
portunity to gain imformation, and for this purpose si:>ent some time before 
starting, and since my return. 

But for the unexpected allotment of carrying the unsettled accounts fo r 
freights and building materials, and the provision of means to pay for 
these, I should have been able to prepare my report at an earlier date. I'.eing 
partially relieved of the burden by Treasurer Eaton's telegram of the 8th 
inst., I now undertake my report. 

.-\KK1VAI. Ol-" lU'KSTS. 

( tn the 19th of June I conducted a missionary meeting in honor of the ar- 
Tival of the Rev. Dr. Kendall, your colleague, and the Rev. Dr. Jackson, the 
missionary of the Synod of Colorado, and on the Sunday following they oc- 
cupied my pulpit. We received these gentlemen cordially, opening to them 
our doors and our hearts, and giving publicity in every way to their visit, I 
also wrote to various members of the Synod of Dr. Kendall's arrival, making 
arrangements for interviews with the ministers and meetings with the i>eopIe. 

CONTRIIU TIONS AT l'Oi;TI.AM> hOR TltK. FORT WKANGKI, Clfl^KCK. 

Some accounts which reached nie of collections for the Fort Wrangel 
ir.issions proved to be erroneous. I had already employed a builder, paid his 



4 Ski'tc/ies of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

passage thither and set him at work on the presumption that Dr. Kendall or 
J)r. Wilson would transmit to me funds to (jo on with the work. But I coulil 
discover no contributions for a house of worship there, except the subscription 
at Fort Wrangel . 

I immediately raised several hundred dollars in this city. We had to pur- 
chase here materials which could not be obtained at Wrangel, and I carried 
up with me a large (|uantity of these on the ship. This secured the prosecu- 
tion of the work. 



THE VOYAGE. 

THK SCENKKV. i;K01.<>;iC AI. TIIEOKIKS Il.I.USTK ATF.D. 

On the Sth of July, I started on my journey with my wife, whose warm in- 
terest in the Alaskan mission had beeia manifested for years, who had co-oper- 
ated with me in the Alaskan work, as well as in all our missionary enterprises, 
and who is well accpiainted with the missionaries who had been sent thither, 
every one of whom had been our guests, and set out on their missionary 
work from the threshold of our home. On the 9th, we took passage on the 
regular mail steamer " California" at I'orl Townsend, at the outlet of Puget 
Sound, in company with Dr. and Mis. Ken lall, Dr. and Mrs. Jackson and 
Miss Dunbar. The next day we left Victoria, Hrilish Columbia, and the 
prow of our vessel turned toward the north. 

The scenery both on land and water, which is justly celebrated for its nov- 
elty, beauty and grandeur, was spread all around us, and which continued to 
attract our delighted attention. The entire navigat on, extending over one 
thousand miles, lies sheltered from the ocean by almost innumerable islands ; 
and, with the exception of two or three places, the ocean is both unseen and 
unfell. 

The landscape is a unique study in geology. The uniformitarian will be 
sadly perplexed to account for these precipitous heights and abysmal dejiths, 
on the theory of the slow and imperceptible action of natural forces. On the 
other hand, the theory of catastrophism will find abundant illustration through 
these channels. 

'J"he slow disintegrating proces>.es recjuircd by the theory of uniforniity to 
break down the sides of these lofty clifis, and to carve out and excavate 
these unfathomable gulfs, would consume eras of duration, the magnitude of 
which would surpass the wildest geologic calculations. 

A vast series of islands stretches along to the left, seaward. Many of them 
are insignificant ; some of them are regularly submerged by the tides. The 
largest is \'ancouuer, which stretches along the coast nearly two hundred 
miles, and across which runs, the 49th parallel. Among these islands lies the 
most unique voyage on this continent, nnd in one respect, probably, without 
a parallel on this planet. I refer to the bend of these channels as running 
with a great degree of uniformity parallel with the coast of the mainland. 



J foyage fo. Sitka. — Historical and Descriptive. 5 

In some insiaticcs, where islamls lie abreast, the freml is duplicated with a 
dej^ree of exactness which is very remarkable. There are many cross channels 
strikint; out at different angles, multiplying the beauty and diversity of the 
scene ; but the general uniformity of the trend suggests, in an instant, a vast 
geologic convulsion, which shot through the Earth, as chain lightning through 
the sky, and split off a portion of the continental mass, which, falling into the 
sea. was dislocated and dissolved by the in-rushing waters, into the thousand 
islands that are now scattered along the coast. 

Perchance the anthropoids, reeling on these dizzy heights, rocked in tho 
throes of these convulsions, gazed down into fathomless abysses. Uut for a 
moment only, for then came the irresistible forces of the sea, pouring through 
innumerable cataracts the overwhelming flood, and with resounding clamors, 
beating against the impregnable fastnesses of the continent, until, as in the 
creation, the Spirit of (lod brooded over the face of the deep, and there 
was a great calm. 

The proofs of glacial action are also abundant, and appear in the most in- 
teresting forms. The slowly sculptured rocks, the glaciers still in operation, 
and beds of extinct glaciers, are everywhere in view, suggesting long ages of 
time to account for the changes which this imperceptible force has wrought 

upon the landscape. 

The ailvocates of the contending theories may shake hands over these chasms, 
as the Neptunians and Plutonians did over their controversy in the early history 
of this science, for it shall come about at the last, doubtless, that both theories- 
shall be accepted and the antagonism cease. 

One hundred and seventy miles south of Fort Wrangel, we passed Methlak- 
atla, the scene of Mr. Duncan's efforts and successes in civilizing Indians. 
The view at a distance of five miles was inspiring. The buildings wore the ap- 
rance of neatness ; and most conspicuous among them, were the church, the 
town hall, and the school-house. One word, — "isolation" — suggests the pecu- 
liarities of Mr. Duncan's plan. Of this, I shall report hereafter. Tariff 
regulations prohibited our vessel from landing without a permit, to which 
a consideralile fee is attached. 

Eighteen or twenty miles beyond Methlakatla, is Fort Simpson, a trading 
post of the Hudson Bay Company, situated at the mouth of the Nass River, 
not far from the Tongass Inlet, and the Portland Channel. The latter two 
being in Alaska, we here cross the invisible boundary, and are once more float- 
ing on "American"' waters. This word designating the United States, I found 
to be as prevalent here as any where else. 

Proceeding onward one hundred and fifteen miles, through scenes of extra- 
ordinary beauty and variety, we enter Etholine Bay. It excites the admiration, 
and even surprise, of all beholders. I think as tourists shall make its attractions 
more familiar, it will be classed among the beautiful bays of the world. 

Six or eight miles distant, lies a scene which awakens in my mind a keener 
.interest. I recognize it in an instant; and I lose sight of '.he peculiarities if its 



6 Skcti/ies of oil Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

' location, in the thought of the spiritual majesty with which it is invested. It 
belongs to the visible Kingdom of God. As we approached, my eye rested upon 
a range of snow-capped mountains, disclosed through a long vista, one of which, 
an obtuse cone, towered above the others, clothed in the purest whiteness, and 
upon which the sun poured a sparkling flood. I accepted it as an emblem to 
l>e transferred to our Alaska banner, — the Sun and the robe of righteousness. 

The few hours of detention at Fort Wrangel, were spent in choice comu)un- 
ion with christian friends, and in renewals of acquaintance. We also surveyed 
the sites for the church and school-house. They are eligible, at a point of 
elevation which commands an extensive view of the bay and islands, and yet 
f4uite accessible from all parts of the town. 

After seeing all my freight safely landed, we proceeded on our voyage to 
Sitka, nearly two hundredmiles. The largest exposure to the open sea occurs 
between these two points, the time Vieing about seven hours. 

The scenery is very attractive. The mountain landscape, through which our 
voyage had already penetrated, was marked by its abrupt and rugged features, 
not without beautiful but limited variation. Islands equally diversify the 
scene, but a larger proportion rises only a few feet above the level of the sea. 
Now and then a plain comes into view, which upon nearer inspection, shrinks 
into a promontory. Our advance dissipates another illusion. \'onder ]i!ain 
contracts into a wide margin running along the foot-hill or mountain. And 
yet another, where the fancied plain breaks into a succession of islands, and 
the watery waste asserts its wonted dominion where we supposed ^square 
leagues of land were lying. 

Though we felt the motion of the open sea, islands, mountains and snywy 
peaks were ever in view. As we turned from these well defined objects toward 
the ocean the contrast was very impressive. The visible horizon, closing upon 
the line where sky and water meet, is well defined by distant clouds, the shad- 
owy counterparts of the unchanging mountain summits. Anon, no cloud inter- 
cepts the view, and the mind longs to pierce the dim distance and inspect the 
objects which lie below the horizon. 

The course of our \H)yage soon conveys us into another labyrinth. In- 
lands re-appear in c\erv direction. The passages between them, though 
often narrow, arc somstines broadened into seas. The prospect, therefore, is 
less confined. Mt. Edgecombe a solitary abtuse cone, rises in the distance. 
The bays and channels are sleeping in perfect calm. The mountains around 
Sitka come into view. The steadiness of our ship, ami the calm upon the deep, 
create the illusion that every object above the water is in motion, describing 
the revolutions of a vast p.inorama, the nearer obje:ts slowly, the distant ob- 
jects swifily, changing llieir positions. 

Centered in th's vast a.nphit'ieatre, 'we suddenly catch sight of the terinina.1. 
point oi our \oyage. 



.1 rojtjgf io Sitka. — /listoriail and Dcccrlptivc. 



SITKA. —MISS KKI.l.or.i; S HClIOOl,. 

The naiionV (lay (lies from the lofty staff on tlie old castle, the inn.st cotispic- 
uoiis object on shore. The naval ship, "Jamestown," lies in the roads, gaily, 
decked witli flags ; a little schooner is anchored near ; the steamer " Rose" 
iskc'Med upon the lieach. i'eyondare the spacious government buildings, and 
the main street on a plateau of a mile or two in extent, skirting an inner bay 
dotted sea-ward with islands. Among the public buildings the most consiiic- 
uous is the Russo-Cireek Church. 

Inland the mountains lift their lofty crests, and describe an irrecular semi- 
circle open toward the ocean. Apart from these and opposite the town, a 
league or two distant, a land-mark, far out at sea. stands .Mt. I^dgecombe. the 
grandest object in the scenery. 

The town site is eligible. It presents a large water front for commerce. 
The climate is reported to be salubrious, the temperature, moderate. The sea 
and forest provide abundant food. The staple vegetables mature here, and 
are now flourishing in the gardens. Bluelierries and salmonbcrrics abound. 
Nutritious grasses cover the spacious area. 

Nature has been ]iartial to the beautiful landscaiie. N\'e speak of her laxish 
hand. Here is an instance of her bounty. ( )iily a little industry and thrift 
applied to the means and nwterials at hand, would make this not only a beau- 
tiful site, l)Ut a beautiful city. 

Beyond the stockade, yet adjacent to the town. i.> the Indian (juarier. h 
skirts the harbor. The port-holes of the nav.il shi]i frown dangerously near. 
No insurrection is to be apprehended while a naval vessel floats in these wa- 
ters; but its presence is cpiite as much needed to regulate lawless white men, 
as to overawe turbulent natises. 

This is the scene of Miss Kellogg 's school labors. ( iood acciunUs of them 
reached my ears. I found some of her pupils. One of these, her interpreter! 
guided me to the cabin where -Vunick, another of her pupils, lay sick. He 
was in a wretched condition. Through the interpreter, I tested his knowledge 
of the gospel, and was surprised at the correctness of his answers. He im- 
pressed me with the belief that his knowledge was experimental. Miss Kellogg 
had taught him the way of life, and he was now looking unto Jesus. My heart 
was touched as nothing else had touched it since I entered Alaska. Here was 
a soul saved through the instrumentality of our missionary. It was a sahation 
almost completed by the stroke of death,— for the malady was mortal. After 
an interview ended in prayer, I left Aunick, thankful for the privilege of sa)- 
ing a few words of comfort to a fellow discijjle, -one of our tirsi fruits in 
Alaska, 

.Sitka was the most important port of the whole Russian empire, east (jf 
Archangel, on either side of the Pacific, or on the fro/en (x:ean. Its legal 
name was New Archangel. 



8 Sketches of an Exi-i/nion In Southern Alaska. 

Manufactories were established here, among them a ship-yard, when ves- 
sels were built and equipped from keel to yard-arm. Steam-boat buildintj 
was carried on under the supervision of an American citizen named Moore, the 
machinery being cast in the Sitka foundry. (Jne of his steamers was of lartje 
dimensions, and performed important service up and down the coast. 

The hospital was so thorou^hlv furnished and so comiilctely nianagcc!, as to 
win the admiration of Sir George .Simpson. President of the Hudson IJay 
Company, who bestowed upon it high praise, by saying tliat it woukl do no 
discredit to the city of London, five hundred Russians were employefl iieio, 
who, with their families, forme 1 a [population of twelve hundred person^. 

These immense public buildings, now emjHy and decaying, weie then the 
scene of busy activity. These ancient guns, whose mountings arc now rotting 
away, then frowned from the lofty caslle walls. That parapet, broad and once 
firm under the tread of military guardian.-., now warns you back as it trem- 
bles lieneath you. 

Further along on the main streel were the shops and dwellings of engineers, 
armorers, tin-smiths, jewelers, builders and cabinet-makers. Some of tliese 
buildings are abandoned now. 

formi:k kI'.lickjus statk. 

The Russian government exercised a species of paternal care over all its 
subjects. Rude and peremptory though it was, still it was useful in many 
respects, and adapted to a half-civilized peoj-lc. This was observable in the 
religous care in all parts of the empire, and Alaska was not neglected. Sitka 
was the seat of the diocese, which embraced all of Russian America, including 
the Alutian Islands, together with the northeastern part of Asia. On his mis- 
sionary journeys, the Bishop was attended by a number of priests and acolytes. 
It is written of one of them that he spared neither himself nor his clergy, 
who were constantly engaged in their sacred calling, encountering many 
hardships and dangers. .Sir Geo. Simpson, previously referred to, who made 
several voyages to Russian America, and who had very favorable opportunities 
'or forming correct opinions, speaks in high terms of the Bishop's character, 
mdustry and piety. Me says further: "'i"he conduct of the Russo (Jreek cler- 
gy in general, appeared to me to deserve great commendation, both as in the 
performance of their duties, and the observance of tlieir vows." 

The evidence derised from various sources, is conclusive, tlial the cause of 
religion was sustained by the Russian Government. Through tlie faithfulness 
of the ecclesiasiics, large numbers of the natives were converted. Whole tribes, 
in same instances, adopted tlie Christianity of the Greek church. .Many hf)uses 
of worship were built, some of which are still in use. 

I'Rr.sivN'i- coNnnioN oi'' riii', c.rf.i'.k ciirRcii. 

Archbishop Nestor, of the (Irei-k Chuich. is imv, performing an Kpiscopal 
journey through .Maska. .\11 accounts of him, which I ha \o seen, give him 
credit for faitlifuln;.'ss in the discharge of liis ofticial duties. 



A Voyage to Sitka. — Historical and Descriptive. 9 

Tiic lulhcroiUs (if the CirccU Church arc found llrst, .it Sitka; westward, 
on (.ouk's Inlet: on the ^reat [tcninsula of Alaska; on Kodiak, south of it; 
Ounalaska. and other Alutian Islands, stretching far westward, and the vast 
region north of the great peninsula, running up to IJehring's Straits, u]) the 
valley of the ^'ld^on. ■:i\\'\ thence northward to the frozen ocean. A \ast re- 
gion indeed ; hut llie jiopulation is very meagre. .\l Sitka a few Russians 
and halfdireeds t'orni the churcli ; on Koilial^ it is re|)orted that the entire 
population of e\ er}- stripe docs not exceed sixteen hundred ; the Aleuts are 
reckoned ai from four to six thousand ; and the entire i)ody of the l-^skimos 
north i_)f the great |ieninsula only a few thousands more ! 

MISSIiiNAKV SLK\KV OK SITKA AND Sl R1UHM)1N(;S. 

The Sitka Intlians belong to a trii^e of the same name, which occupies this 
and a few other points on the coast. Owing to their position and intelligence, 
they are quite influential. Their habitations are built like those of other tribes 
of the Tlinket nation, of huge timbers, and thick plank skillfully hewed into 
shape. They exhibit great ingenuity in making their canoes and other con- 
"rivanccs. Ihil of the mechanical skill of the Tlinket people I shall speak 
hereafter. 

North-'we.-.t of Liaranoft". Island, on which Sitka is located, the next large 
island is Tchitchagoft', (now pronounced Kichagoff,) upon which an interesting 
body of the natives is found called Hoonyahs, w^ho are reported to be warlike, 
and indisposed to receive missionaries and teachers, which, no doubt, means 
that they decline to receive the visits of corrupt and disorderly while men. 
But my informant admitted that his knowledge was too limited to give a correct 
opinion of the whole tribe. 

On the presumption that you have before you a map of the country, I pro- 
ceed to direct your attention to what is called Lynn Canal, northward from 
Sitka; the extreme point of the nitrusion of the sea upon the continent in this 
unparalleled series of straits, channels, inlets and sounds, connected with a 
like unparalleled series of islands, and even archipelagoes. This embraces a 
region from the southern extreme of Alaska, 54° 40", up to the mouth of 
Chilcat River, a tlistance of Hnir hundred miles in a straight line. CJeologically 
considered, the chraacteristics of this region extend, however, westward 
the great peninsula, embracing inlets and islands, tlie most importa 
being Prince William Sound. Cook's Inlet and Kodiak Island, the latter 
being about se\en h\uidre<l nnles from Sitka. In giving my \iews respecting 
localities for opening missions, I shall refer to these geographical features. 

The two days spent at Sitka were fdlcd up with inquiries pertaining to the 
-ai-rcd object of my visit. My secretary wp.s alike busily employed ; and we 
were not satisfied witii vi-its of mere formality, but sought information from 
every competent souree. We interviewed Col. Hall, collector of the district ; 
CajK. Heardslee, connnander of the C S. S. "Jamestown," anchored in port : 
Mijor Berry, former collector : A. T. Whitford, the noted dealer in curiosities. 
and other trader- : also. Rev. N. I. Metropolsky, the Russiai\ priest : Mr-.. 



lo Skcii/iis of an Excursion to Soiiihern Alaska. 

Kastrometinofl", an iiUelligcni Russian lady ; Mrs. Goldstein, of the Helicew 
persuasion ; Mrs. Ball, the collector's wife ; Airs. Metropolsky, the priest's 
wife ; Jukoft" a Russian half-breed, a trusted interpreter and an adherent of the 
(jreek church ; Alisky. an intelligent miner ; and a few aborigines. Several 
of these persons spoke in high terms of respect and of admiration for Miss 
Kellogg and her work, with which they were familiar. Rev. Mr. Brady was 
here. These persons were sought out as representatives, qualified to give in- 
telligent opinions. These opinions were doubtless tinctured by peculiarities 
of nationality, culture, religion and habits good and bad. My aim was not 
to impress my own views nor even to express them ; but by the help of God's 
Spirit to extract the wisdom which might be found in theirs. 

I left Sitka with the conviction'that we had tasted the waters of e\ery 
fountain. I may say here that we practised this method from the beginning, 
and all through. We improved every opportunity to gain information. 

SALMON FISHERFES. 

A few miles from Sitka, at Hunter's Point, a large salmon cannery is in full 
operation. Natives are employed in the various departments, in some of these 
under the direction of " white" men. The fishing is exclusively in the hands 
of the natives, the pay for which is a half cent per pound, for " fish weighing 
ten pounds and upwards. All below that weight are thrown out. The aver- 
age weight when I was there was sixteen pounds. Much larger fish were 
being taken, however, some of them weighing three or four times the average. 

This establishment is near the site of old Sitka; which was forsaken in the 
year 1804, in consequence of its indefensible position. The natives had risen 
and massacred a large number of the inhaljitants. The site of the present city 
s sujicrior in every particular. Another cannery is established at Klawok, on 
i'rincc of Wale^ ls!r,n<l. 

On the 171)1 of July «c rc-i:rn^sed the beautiful bay and landed at Wran. 
gel, which was lo W nur hunie lor a .month. 

AC W RAM, 1:1, A(;AI.\. lUIi.DlNGS. 

The carpenter whom I had sent up from Portland, proved lo be a suitable 
man for our work. Under Mr. Young's supervision, the sites for both church 
and school had ]>een cleared of ilie brush, and prepared for building. We had 
adopted the plans for the church l)efore the materials were shipped from Port- 
land, and this work was therefore progressing smoothly. 

The plans for the 1 1 )me and School, which were brought from the JOast, 
were found to be unsuitable an<l too expensive. Estimates for the new plan 
were made and orders for materials forwarded by return steamer. Before leav- 
ing Portland I had made conditional bargains for these, and had contracted for 
transportation at a reduction of about one-third. So everything was ready to 
proceed. Upon applying the plan to the site some grave measures were 
discovered. To provide for these deficiencies, a basement, for which the 
ground was well adapted, was added to the plan. This increased the e\- 



A J'oyagc (o Sit/^'n. — Historical and Descriptive. ii 

jifiisc of the one liuilding, but considerably lessened the cost of tlie whole es- 
tablishment, by obviating the necessity of additions, or of separate l)uildin!;s 
on the site. 

i'Kt;rAK.\rii).N iok riir. okcamzation of ihk riu'Rcii. 

SAHHATH SKRVICES. 

histructed by the Presbytery of Oregon to organize a church at I'orl 
VV range!, and knowing that Mr. Young was pieparing for this great event be- 
fore our arrival, we proceeded in a private and informal manner to examine 
persons whom Mr. Young regarded as most likely to be qualified for pul)lir 
profession. Proceeding with due caution and deliberation, we examined some 
thirty natives in this way, from time to time. The date selected for the or 
ganization w^as the first Sabbath in August. On the next Sabbath, the 20th 
of July, the barracks were crowded with Indians and whites — a motly assen\ 
bly. 

During the Sabbaths we spent at \Vrangel, the visitors, l)rs. Jackson and' 
Kenilall and myself conducted the public worship, under Mr. Young's direc- 
tion. Bro. Young has been here almost a year, and has acquired a facile use 
of the [Chinook dialect, universally adopted on this coast as the means o 
communication between the Indians of different tribes and " whites." 
I was especially interested and gratified at the propriety aud solemnity 
with which Bro. Young oftered prayer in Chinook. Owing to the common 
r.nd even vulgar use of the "jargon," as it is generally termed, I had imagined 
il would be impossiljle to offer prayer in it in a becoming manner. 

EXCURSIONS. 

Before starting on this journey, I had projected excursions to the Chilcal 
Country, Fort Simpson, Methlakatla, up the Stahkeen River, and into the Prince 
of Wales Archipelago. This would embrace the exploration of the entire in- 
sular and mainland region of Southern Alaska, extending from 54° 40' along 
the great bend of the coast to Sitka, and one hundred miles beyond it. A 
number of tourists on board the steamer readily fell into these plans. One of 
these trips was dependent upon the use of a steamboat at Sitka, wliicli we 
found disabled ; and tliat excursion was therefore given up. 

TOWARDS LYNN CANAL. 

But on returning to \\'rangel we started on the excursion to the ('liilcats. 
To our party were added Rev. Mr. Young, Mrs. Mcl'arland, ?\Ir. ami Mrs. 
Vanderbilt. Miss Dunbar remained at Wrangel in charge of the "Home." 
We took with us, also, Kadishan, a Stahkeen chief, who was well acquainted 
with the country and people whom we were going to visit, and w'ho actod as. 
our pilot, and Kwankeh, his wife. 

On Monday, July 21st, we started on this excursion. The distance was re- 
ported to be something less than two hundred miles. One of my objects was 
gratified, namely, near inspection of the mainland, and actual entrance upon 
der circumstances favorable to forming just opinions of it. 



Skekhes of an Excursion to Southern Alaska, 



We coasted along the mainland, westward, to Prince Frederick's Sound, into 
which we entered. Continuous forests and impenctral)le thickets hid the eavtli 
from our view where anything like level landscape appeared. But most of 
the \\ay. mountains descended abruptly to the water's edge, and beneath it at 
the same angle into unmeasured depths. Above, the forests extended up th 
mountain sides with a degree of uniformity, and beyond, the growth of trees. 
shrul)bery, and moss crept upward often to the very summits. Defiles dis- 
closed less timber and loftier mountains, often covered with snow ; or local 
i^laciers in active operation. A few of the glaciers descended to the water's 
edge. At one of these we spent a few hours. No white man on board had 
fvcr seen it : but Kadishan l<new the locality, and piloted us tn it. 

INSI'ECTION OK THK Cl.ACIKR. 

It is estimated to be nearly two miles wide. Several streams were flowing 
from it into the sea. The moraine covered several s<[uare miles. The near view 
of it exhibited the ice in its varied forms, w ith pinnacles intercepted by fiee]) 
■crevasses, in which the intense blue of the ice appeared. The course of the 
tjlacicr could be traced several miles ; and on either side tributaries joined th^ 
main trunk — frozen streams entering a frozen river. 

We approached this glacier in a steam-boat, through a channel between 
ni()untain> of LTanite, v.hich bore the inilelil^le mark of glacial action. The 
■chaiiiicl itself was excavated by the glacier, whose supplies were drawn from 
ithese elevations upon which we were gazing. The direction of the warm cur- 
rent from the Pacific, the increased temperature, had abridged the vast glacier, 
which had lain within the embraces of these lofty peaks. We surveyed the 
scene and traversed the landscape with great admiration and delight, this being 
.the first opportunity for most of us to inspect a glacier, the slowest, and yet 
among the most effective forces of nature. At the other extremity of nature's 
forces stands volcanic action, and throughout the vast region which surrounded 
lis for manv a hundred leagues in every direction, there were the evidences of 
llie action of both these forces. Though they differ so widely in the time 
employed to i)roduce great changes, yet they have left their signatures upon 
the face of the landscape, equally legible and ineffaceable, .\fterwards, there 
were three glaciers in view at the same time — a wonderful sight to us who 
wen- unaccustomed to such scenery. All the glaciers were on the mainland. 

KSTIMATK OK THK MAINLAND. 

We were compelled, in consef[uence of the slow progress of our steamer, to 
return before we had accomplished the main object of this trip, which was mis- 
sionary. 13ut I obtained such definite information respecting the people and 
their disposition toward receiving teachers, that I feel warranted in expressing 
my views about the entire region with confidence. 

The insular scenery presented no new features ; but the survey of the main- 
land agreed with accounts of persons whose journeys in the interior, or in vari- 
ous directions, enabled them to give a description of it, from actual inspection, 
ns this was my first extended contact with it, and ns I liad no other opportunity 



A Voyage to Sitka. Historical and Deu'riptirf. i,^ 

afterward of the same kiiul, I will reserve m\ opinion oi the counii) lur ihc 
present, only saying, that on itu- entire route (jf one luiiulicd and (orl\- nii!e> 
I did not discover enough land insular or continental, that couM In- niidily re- 
duced to cultivation, to make a half-score nf ordinary farms. 

IHK DMSKKIl.li \1I,1 AC.i;. 

The next day we went to [he site of the old Stahkcen town. It \\a^ a lieau 
tiful situation, li»)kiiig out u|)on the sea. sheltered, aii<l with sunny exposine- 
In the liay were several islands. ( )iic of tlu-m was kept sacred as a burial 
place. The tond)s \\ere \i>il)le at a distance. Tliese were strong lioxcs 
raised above the ground for protection, built in the sliape of houses, sometimes 
painted, and within which the remains are ileposite<i. We could not hut ad- 
mire the rude taste, a^ well as the sentiments which were thus conve_\ed. 

The town was abandoned when the Stahkeen ]ieo]de euiigraletl to W'lauge!^ 
their present liead-()uarters. The buildings were fading into decay ; but 
enough remained to impress us with the fact that their mechanical skill was of 
no recent origin. The Stalikeens occupied this site for generations pastr 
and here were immense wooden houses that mitdil have ln?en standing a cen- 
tury ago, judging from the condition of the wooden buildings, which I had 
examined on the Atlantic coast, and which are known to have been erected be- 
fore the Revolutionary war. Those i)uilding> were frail ; these built of mas- 
sive timbers and posts of cedar, the mo>t tiurable wood. Tiie posi> were troiii 
two to three feet in diameter, some lound and others sijuared. 'i'he [danivs for 
floors were several inches thick. The mortise and tenon vscrk in the hame 
joined with accuracy, and other mechanical contrivances appeared in these 
structures. All were large, and some immense. I measured one house 
sixty by eighty feet. 

The domestic life is patriarchal. >,e\'eral families being gathered under one 
roof. Genealogies were kept for ages ; aiui honors and distinctions made he- 
reditary. To mark these, insignia, like a coat-ol-arms. were a(lo])ted : and in 
rude carvings they strove to represent them. I could ilecipher, also, the |iaini 
ings that once figured these upon the posts and sides of houses. The eagle- 
the whale, the bear and the otter, and other animals of sea and lai\d, were the 
favorites, oft-times coupled with a warrior in the attitude of triumph, (iigan- 
tic representations of these family endjlems were erected near the house, on 
posts, twenty or thirty feet high, covered with carvings of \arious animals, amf 
the devices stained with permanent pigments of black, red and blue. Imag- 
inarv creatures, resembling griltins or dragons, and reminding \<.\\\ of ilie 
mammoth animals that flourished in a dist.ant geological jxriod. were i;uve«{ 
on the posts or pictured on the walls. Raised figures resembling hiirogl\ |)h- 
ics and Asiatic al])habets were car\etl on the inside walls. 

•Some of the posts containing the family coat-of-arms, tlui^ higld\ larNecl 
and decorated according to the native taste, were\ised as receptacles tor the re- 
mains of the dead, gathered up after cremation. Great sacredness was at- 
tached to them. To injure one was to insult the family to which it b.-longe<U 
to cut one down was an unpardonable offence. 



j4"/*r Skeiches oj an Excursion to Soutlurn Alaska. 

did not know. We did not know the origin of this stone even, which I hold 
m ray hand. Some of our wise men said that yale (the crow) made it and 
made all things. Some said the other spirits made us and all things. Dark- 
ness was over all the land and we groped about and could lind no light. But 
3^()U sent the missionaries. They brought God's word with them. They open- 
ed our eyes. Now we know God, who made this stone, and all things besides. 
And we are not afraid of God, as we were afraid of the Yale. God is our 
Father ; He loved us and sent His .Son to die that we might not be punished. 
I have shown you how we used to fight. I was in many wars, and was fond 
of fighting. Rut now God's word has said to us to fight no more, and to love 
«>ur enemies, 

Before Mr. Young came, we Imlians were in our canoes trying to reach the 
shore in vain. A strong wind was driving us out into the ocean, and the stornt 
was beating down upon us. We were heartsick and perishing. But we heard 
God's voice calling us, and saw Jesus Christ coming to help us, and we 
took him aboard, and he steered the canoe through the waves, and brought us 
to the land. Now we are safe in the harljor. Now there is no storm. The 
winds have driven the clouds away, and all is peace, because you have taught 
«s to love God and obey Jesus Christ. Now we live in God, for we know He 
loved us, and we put our trust in Him. 

The first white people that came among us had white skins and l)lack hearts. 
They were wicked men. They taught us many evil practices. They spoiled 
■our children, bought or stole our daughters, and soon cast them off. They 
j-obbed, and poisoned, and murdered us. We thought all white men were 
alike, and that w'e would all soon perish under the white man's lust, and our 
own folly and madness. But we found out that there was a difference among 
the whites. Some came who did not try to eat us up. We found out the 
cause of the difference when you sent missionaries. Now we learn to love 
others as ourselves, and to do good, even to our enemies. We learn God'^ 
will, and try to do it. Now we know you treat us as brethren ; and agiin we 
ihank you for coming to see us." 

TOW-AH-ATT's ADDRFSS to INDIANS. 

Turning to the Indians from other tribes, of whom a considerable number 
was present, Tow-ah-att spoke as follows : "My Brothers! Last spring some of 
the Auk Indians attacked my friends ; and, for the first time in my life, my 
face was cut. Before I learned Christianity, I would have avenged the shame, 
and would have demanded a life for the insult, according to our customs. But 
Mr. Young told us we must not pay back our enemies. So I ask you all to 
consider us as your friends, and ask you to come with us. Learn about God, 
and follow our teachers ; and you will also live in peace in your land. Fut 
away drinking, and gambling, and fighting ; and after a while the Indian 
will be numerous again, and like the white men in knowledge and power." 

The interpreter, an intelligent and conscientious person, has revised the fore, 
going, and pronounces it an accurate version of Tow-ah-att's speech, but not 
iill of it. Only the substance of it i.s here transcribed — enough, however, to 



A Voyage to Sitka. — HistorLal and Descriptive. ^Ilf 



Tlic (Icscriptitin wtiirli I liavc now given yiui, will answer, with sunie unim- 
portant (lificroncc's fur the native houses as th'v ore foun-l elsewhere. Ttie nii;ht 
t'ollowin'' \\ e were 



AT Foin' \VK \n(;ki. again. 

The next day, July 4th, wc resumed our vvork, making the acquaintance of 
persons who were well-informed respecting the country and the natives, anil 
gatlieriiig additional stores for future use.. 

Till". 1;N rKKJ'.MN.MKNT .\ f TO\V-A H- ATT's. 

liy previous invitation, the missionaries and tlieir guests assembled at the 
house of Tow-ah-att, a tyhee or chief of the Slahkeen tribe. An exhibition of 
manners and customs had been prepared for us, to show us what Indian life 
had been — a state even now about terminated. We were notified to come by 
the discharge of cannon, the first boom sounding the note of preparation, 
the second to begin our march. On our arrival a salute was fired, and dis- 
charges were kept up at intervals during the afternoon. The gun was exclu- 
.sively managed by natives, a noticeable circumstance. 

The insignia on Tow-ah-att's house were the eagle and wolt, marking the 
union of two families. A brief address of welcome introduced the entertain- 
ment. Among the customs shown to us by the dramatic representation, were a 
warrior with blackened face, with spear and helmet, and with belt containing a 
two-edged knife or dagger ; a chief in full (h^ess, made of skins and a robe 
made of the wool of mountain shee]). Each of these presented an impos- 
ing appearance. 

After these, masks and effigies appeared, next a potlach dance, in which a 
large number of the natives of both se.xes engaged. This was followed by 
dances which were used only upon notable occasions, which might be called 
sacred or religious. These dances and the chants were regarded by the natives 
with a species of veneration. We were struck with the comparative ex- 
cellence of the singing, which accompanied these dances, displaying a consider- 
able amount of culture. Evidently much practice had been bestowed upon the 
art, as the large number, young and old, that engaged in them, observed the 
musical rests and parts with great precision. A large number of whites and 
Indians were present at this entertainment, and the house was not crowded. 
Our entertainers observed some formalities, which could do no discredit to 
the most enlightened assemblies. After an address of welcome, and short 
speeches from visitors, one of the chiefs, Tow-ah-att, delivered a formal dis- 
course, a portion of which is here reported. 

T0\V-AU-ATT'S SI'EfXH. 

■'.My dear brothers: .My heart i.-> very glad since you have come so far to sec 
us and help us. I intend, to-day, to show how ^we used to do, and what we 
have given up since wc learned about Jesus Christ. 

In old times we Indians knew how to hunt, and fish, and how to provide 
for our families, and some of us were rich. But there were many things we 



i6 SktU/ct's oj an Excursion to Si)utheni Alaska. 

how the intellecliial (jualities of the speaker; but the delivery was, in a high 
degree, impressive. The posture, voice, and gesture, displayed the genius of 
an orator, though untrained in schools of art, and unconscious of his i)o\\er. 
'Ihese accessories deejiened the conviction of his ability an<! ^5incc^ltv. The 
strangers listened to him with the keenest attention. 

We were entertained by other speakers, who displayed an une\[)ectcd degree 
of mlellectual qualities. One saiil : "I wish to go with C'hristians, and stay 
with them. I am not ashamed of this, though Shustack says I have i)ut m\ 
name under the feet of all the Tlinkets. liut my heart is not sad on accounl 
of these things, since Goo is pleased." 

VIEWS AND I'.XI'RKSSIONS OK TilK NATIVKS. 

From many interviews with the natives at different times ami place>, ihe 
following arc selected to illustrate their mental cap.acity ami the character of 
the thoughts w'hich they entertain : 

"We wish to follow the new life, and to have new laws, (,'iovernment 
among the Tlinkets has grown weak and is falling in. We want the laws vi 
white mert and their government. Nothing is safe now. We want [n-ople 
protected so that bad men shall no longer abuse them, nor cheat them. The 
Christian religion is so new to us, and the old ways had such a strong hold up- 
on us, and we were so full of them, that we adapt ourselves but slowly to the 
new way. .So strong are these customs, that it is almost impossible for an old 
man among us to adopt the new. But those of us who are younger desire to 
make a total change. Mr. Young exhorted us to give up our bad practices. 
And now we are ready to adopt Christian customs. ' 

"Our hearts were asleep. Now they are awake. \'ou have made them so 
still more by your visit tons : and all the churchgoers are strengthened, and v\e 
earnestly ask you to help us in every way to make a complete reformation t)f 
life. .\ little of (Jod's Spirit is in us. Vou are full of the Spirit. lie has 
led you iiere ; and our prayer is that He may lead us into your way^^. "" 

"The Tlinkets understand that your church is e.^tablisjied 1)\- the L'nite<i 
Slates people ; and that you are in favor of just law s ft)r w bites and Indians, 
and for this reason they come to you. They know that you will treat them 
justly, and believe that you can ])rotect them." 

"\'i)ur visit is having a great effect. Whites and Indians, >,aid that Mr. 
\'oung w(^ukl not stay. Hut you come and go on with the work that Mr. 
\'oung began ; and they believe you mean it, and there will be a great turning 
to your mission. Your coming is the common talk among the Indians ; and 
1 know what their thoughts and wishes are, for they keeji busy talking about 
you." 

(^)uestion. — Can your p(.-o])le l)e rescvied and educated w ithoin >.e|)aration 
from ihe w hites ? 

"If v\e can have protection it is better not to sejiarate Intlians and whiter. 
l-~nreign Indians coming to trade, see the church and schotils, and that makes 



i^oyage to Sitka. — Historical and JJescriptive. if 

them wish to have the same. All depemls on getting law and justice. In- 
dians are obedient. They want to learn trades. They work faithfully. They 
do now carpenter work for tlu-nisL'lves. They understand law, and respect 
rights, except in war ; then they are tierce.'" 

"The Russians were sometimes cruel; hut the United States people now 
treat the Tlinkels lietter. When the Tlinkets heard that the Hyas Tvhe.- 
(the President) had bought the Kahn, (Country) they i)clieved him when he 
sent word that they would not oppress them, but would teach them many things, 
and show them how to live like white people, We thought when the soldiers 
were here that the Hyas Tyhec was false ; but now we love the Americans, 
biiause iw have got acqitaintcJ with the missionaries, and their friends." 

" When Mr. Crosby* came, we heard what he had to say about Christianity. 
We did not know wliether we should take it, because we were not King George's 
men. We did not like them ; and we thought the United States people had 
a different religion and we wanted theirs . We did not give him our full 
confidence. We wanted our children to learn, however, and so we sent them 
to Philip Mackay's school. But Mr. Crosby said that you would send teachers 
to carry on schools ; ami when .Mr. Mallory came, we knew that there were 
some white men that spoke true, and we gave him our hearts. The ice melted 
and the flowers began to blossom." 

Q. What did the Russians teach you about religion?" 

A. The white people did not tell us the way. We were blind, and bad 
white men wanted to keep us blind. Then we hated them ; but now we try 
to love them. Now we have learned to pray, and we know that God answers 
our prayers. 

Q. Do other Indians want teachers to come to them? 

A. Oh, yes : they all want them. Send teachers to make us all brethren. 
Q. Are not other Indians too proud to receive them? 

A. Some f)f them are ashamed, because the traders laugh at them. It i^ 
a hard struggle. They laugh at us because we aie trying to do right, and for- 
sake our sins But teachers and good men will help us. Send them to oth- 
ers. They laugh because we love God, and will not go in our old ways. But 
we like to find something to please them, and to do them good. We don't 
care now w hen they laugh at us. We are sorry because they laugh at God 

Q. If the chiefs, Shustack and Shaikes, continue to oppose us, what effect 
will it have upon the Indians? 

A. Some of them will surely follow the Tyhees, for the Stahkeens have 
always been obedient, liul there are others who would not obey the chiefs 
because they have learned to love (iod. lUit the chiefs' government is not as 
strong as it was. The people d(j not fear them as they did in former times. 
The chiefs see this ; and they know the white man is the cause of it. 

'^Missionary at Fort Simpson, British Columbia. 



l8 Sketches of an Exairsmi to Souther?} Alaska 

Q. They must see that we are doing good to their people, without reward. 
Why do they not favor our coming ? 

A. Because the people give heed to the teachers without waiting for the 
lead of their chiefs. Tiiis makes them angry. 

I have come a long way to see the Stahkeen people, and I am anxious to see 
the chiefs. Send word to them that I wish to meet them. 

INTERVIEW Wnil A Kl.ANKETED NATIVE. 

[An Example.] 

On Monday, the 28th, 1 had an interview with Unagalas, a C'hilcat doctor, 
a man apparently sixty years of age. He was clad in buckskin garments, 
covered with a blanket, hatless, with uncut hair. Until within ten days, he 
had never seen a white man nor a steamer. I had seen him at our Sabbath 
worship, and elsewhere. He was quite ready to converse. I believe he was 
sincere in desiring the introduction of teachers among his people. He was 
very deeply impressed with the importance of the white mans religion. I 
urged upon him as a personal interest, the great salvation, and made it very 
plain. 

Another attempt to penetrate the interior, failed through a defect in the ma- 
chinery of the steam boat, and after a few hours al^sence, we floated l»ack on 
the tide to Fort Wrangel. 

STAHKEEN RIVEK EXCURSION. 

The next effort was successful. We enlisted a party of excursionists for the 
Stahkeen River tour. Of the number was Dr. and Mrs. Kendall, T\.ev. S. H. 
Young, Dr. and Mrs. Lindsley. Mr. and Mrs. Vanderbilt. We resolved to 
see Telegraph Creek, the remotest point of steamboat navigation. I was ac- 
quainted with the Captain, N. H. Lane, a Portland man, also the managing 
owner of the boat, who was on board, and who extended every facility to us 
for explorations at different localities. For example, at the (Ireat Clacier we 
tarried over half a day and all night. I have written an account of this excur- 
sion for publication, to which I beg to refer members of the Board, who have 
any interest in it. *As the sketch was written for popular reading, the bearings 
of the trip upon our work were not made to appear. I now proceed to state 
these. 

One object of the trip was gained in an interview with .Shustack antl Shaikes, 
hvns tyheds (head chiefs) and Kakeesh, Kapanake, K nmk, Shadesty and Kad- 
ishan, sub-chiefs, and a large numlier of the Stahkeen tribe. The hvas tyhees 
of the tribe were avoiding us ; and therefore, I determined to seek them. I 
attached great importance to winning them over to our cause, and if that 
were not possible, to conciliate them, or at least neutralize their hostility. 

On the 30th of July, we found them at Glenora, in British Columbia. Be- 
ing introduced by Mr. Young to the superior chiefs, some of the others being 
present, I told them that I had heard of them as the tyhees of the people ; 
that I had read their names in the newspapers ; that Mr. Young had written 
* The sketch has not been publiRhed yet. 



Voyage to Alaska. — Historical and Descriptive. 19 



about them to me ; that I longed to see them, to tell them how they and their 
people woidd he saved from destruction, which was sure to follow them if they 
continued in llicir old ways. I had often thought of them, and prayed for 
hem, and had now come to tell them how they and their children and chil- 
dren's children could remain in the places where they now lived. I told them 
that Dr. Kendall, who was on the steamboat, had come all the way from New 
^'ork to see tlieni, and that we wanted to have a conference that evening. I 
exhorted them to think of what I had said, and to let us know in the evening 
what they tlunight of it, and what they would do. 

Shaikes expressed great satisfaction on hearing what I had said. He had 
often thought about the things I had spoken of, and would be very glad to 
meet us in the evening. .Shustack thanked me for coming to see him, and 
wished to join the proposed conference. ■ 

Mr. ^'oung procured the Cosmopolitan Hotel, the largest building in the 
place — a log house, two stories high. A large numl)er of Indians, some of 
whom belonged to other tribes, were present at the conference. The chiefs 
occupied elevated seats. The interpreters were Mr. Young and Kadishan, as- 
sisted l)y W. T. Stephens, owner of the boat. .A^ numlier of whites were pres- 
ent, also. 

I felt the great gravity of the occasion. Here were the head chiefs of the 
Stahkeen trilie, whose influence was considerable among all the tribes of 
Tlinkets occupying the country from the boundaries of British Columbia to 
Cross Sound. It was reported that Shaikes was vacillating in opinion about 
us; but he was so nuich under Shustack's control, although equal to him in 
authority, that he was throw ing his influence on the same side. Shustack had 
opposed our missions and schools, and sustained the old order of things. 

The conference began with a short address by Dr. Kendall, in which he 
stated that he had come a long way to see the Stahkeen people ; and that we 
were doing a great deal for their welfare, and intended to do more ; but tha*^ 
he wanted to know what they thought alwut it; that he would like to hear 
what they had to say. 

It was intimated that I was expected to address them l)efore they replied. 
I accordingly sjioke, saying in substance : 

I remind you of what I said in Mr. Lovell's store. We have sent teachers 
to you, and are Iniilding a church and school-house for you. Perhaps you 
think it strange that we should take so much interest in you ; and it is possible 
that you may suspect us of some wrong design. Put that entirely out of your 
minds, for we have only the best motive in doing this for your people. We 
assure you that we do this because we are your friends, and want to save you. 
I have often thought of you since Mr. Seward bought Alaska ; and prayed 
that I might do you good ; and we have now come to tell you what you must 
do to l)e saved. A great many Indians once lived in the United .States coun- 
try ; Ijut many grew worse and worse, and died off by following war, and 



Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 



other bad practices. They learned some barl ways from white people, I am 
sorry to say, and that destroyed them .sooner. But there are tribes of those 
Indians who live like white people. They have farms and dwellings, work- 
shops, schools and churches, and plenty of everything to make them comfort- 
able. You can have the same; but you must learn to live like christians. 
For this purpose we sent teachers to you ; and nothing can save you but the 
Gospel of Jesus Christ, which they have brought you. We wish to help you 
to walk in (jod's ways ; and you must help us by coming to our meetings and 
schools, and by giving your influence for the improvement and salvation of 
your people. Alaska belongs to you, and white people have no right to crowd 
you out of it. But they will surely do it, if you continue to follow your old 
ways. Feeling this deeply, we come to you now before many white people 
come, that you may leain the things which make them strong, and which only 
can make you and them happy. Again I assure you that this is our only reason 
for undertaking what we are doing for you ; and you must trust us till we prove 
this to you. You cannot understand our motive, as we understand Fit. No 
man, indeed, can put a price upon the good we offer you. May God help 
you to decide wisely. 

Brother Young added remarks in Chinook, explaining Dr. Kendall's con- 
nection with the Board. They had long before understood my relation to 
them. I felt most desirous to have a good word from Shustack. He is a 
i"an of patriarchal dignity; and by reason of age, his authority is greater 
than that of Shaikes. He spoke with the tone and gesture of a man who 
was accustomed to be obeyed — and with oratorical skill. 

shustack's RKTIA'. 

He Ijegan : 'T want first to thank you for what you have said. \a\\ have 
come a long way to see us ; and we believe what you say. When Mr. ^"oung 
came I was not pleased, because he would not d© what I wanted him to. I 
wished him not to turn my people away from their old customs. And I op- 
posed him for interfering with us. I wanted my people to learn new ways to 
make them strong, and to keep the old dances and ceremonies, because we 
and Indians of other tribes have always practiced them. White people have 
their ways — so have Tlinkets ; and it is not seemly for Indians to give up 
their practices and adopt other people's. 

"But you tell us that we must change some things, and I begin to believe 
it. I want my people to be prosperous and happy ; and I shall consider what 
you have said. You will teach the children many things, and I shall not op- 
pose it. Mr. Young means to do us good, and I shall not stand in his way 
any longer. But I want to observe the ancient rites and customs. We want 
nur children and their children to stay in this land, as long as tide flows an 1 
sun shines. 

This speech was very gratifying. Its concessions were not expected. A 
brighter light dawned upon our cause. And I thanked God for the exertion 
of his power upon that man's heart. 



Fojage to Alaska. — Historical and Descriptive. 2\ 

STKF.CH OF SHAIKES. 

Shaikcs said the fnllnwiii}; in substance : "I am very glad to see you. I came 
a great way to-day in my canoe ; but when I saw you on the steamer, (Kad- 
ishan signaled him as the steamer passed him a few hours before) I did not 
stop at my house, because I \sas anxious to see you. So I came here. 

Mr. ^■oung told us many new things ; but we had l)een often deceived by 
white men, and «e iHd not know wheilK-rhc spoke the truth. lUit now we 
see you, and hear what you liave to say, and we can doubt no longer. \ ou 
have said that you will help us to be wise and strong ; and we are beginning 
to feel that we need your help. I can help yni, and will do it. But now we 
want you to tell us what we should do, and we shall not be ashamed to do it. 
What I say now, I intend to do. T will not say one thing to-day, and anoth- 
er to-morrow." (No doubt alluding, as Mr. Young says, to his previous vacil- 
lating course. ) 

SHADF.STY. 

He used their formula: '\'I am happy to see you here, very happy. Shaikes 
is hereditary chief; his word is law. What he tells us, we shall do. We had 
heard something about the white man's (lod, and Mr. Young told us more 
about Him. We did not know what to believe. Now we see you here, who 
have come so far, and we must believe what Mr. Young has told us. " He 
said more to the same effect. 

SPEECH OF K.\KEESH KAI'ANAKE. 

"We heard that you were coming some time ago. I saw you at ,^itka. I 
was on the wharf when you came off the steamer there, and I w as told who 
you were. Then I came to Fort Wrangel, a distance of one hundred and 
seventy miles, in my canoe ; after that, up the river to this place, one hundred 
and sixty miles further ; and everywhere told the Tlinkets that you were com- 
ing. .\nd now I am very glad to meet you and hear what you said. It makes 
my heart leap toward you all. Tlinkets were very ignorant, but God blessed 
white men and put it into your hearts to send tidings about his Son to us." 

kounk's speech. 

" Kakeesh s|)oke tru--. We wjrc all very ignorant, but wj hjard of (iod, 
and had prayed to him for teachers. We believed something about God. 
Dr. Lindsley sent teachers (meaning"jMr. .Mallory and Mrs McFarland, as I 
w-astold.) Now God has sent us teachers.****Indians were beginning to 
see that God is strong, and that His friends are strong. We wish to know 
your ways and walk in them." 

Before the conference adjourned, Shaikes expressed tiie wish that more of 
his people could have met us., and heard what we had said. 

[O-.VIiaV OF Till-: (■(~)NFKKENCK. 

Tlie next day, luly 31, on the way to Telegraph Creek, we repeatedly heard 
the remark that the Conference of the night before was of very great significance. 
All parties on the boat expressed surprise, not only at the concessions made by 



2 2 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

the chiefs, but also at the ameliorating influence which was diffused through 
the assembly. Nothing resembling it, but quite the'opposite, had been observed 
by the miners and traders. They cauld not account for it : but we ascribe it 
to the truth of the gospel sincerely spoken, and made convincing by the Spirit 
of God. We do not attach to these transactions the importance which we 
would if these poor people were civilized, rich and powerful : but regarding 
them in their ignorance and degradation, we are moved by a keen sense of 
their exposure. Any voluntary act of theirs which smoothes the way to their 
elevation, we cannot fail to appreciate ; and their confidence in us is a first 
step towards it. This explanation is due, to guard our views and expressions 
against misconstruction. 

At Glenora I found the home of a former member of my church, Mrs. Lov- 
ell, who was absent. Her husband J. B. Lovell is both merchant and magis- 
trate, to whom we were indebted for hospitable attentions. 

We spent five days on this excursion. The entire landscape from P'ort 
Wrangel to Telegraph Creek, the head of steamboat navigation, provides 
studies in Geology, one department of which — the glacial — is complete. Thp 
student will find every chapter spread out and illustrated. The theme is very 
attractive, but the length of my report forbids enlarging upon it. I refer yo\i 
to the sketch of it, already mentioned, and hasten back to Wrangel, to de- 
scribe the greatest event which had ever taken place in Alaska. 

THE ORCIAMZAIION OK THE VISIHI.E CHIKCH. 

On Saturday, the 2nd of August, the public examination of candidates took 
place. We had previously examined and conversed with all who were to ap- 
pear, and had advised some to wait. Prayer meetings had been held, and, 
in short, much preparation for the signal event had already been made. We 
felt, therefore, that the public examination was only one step in a series. We 
desired, however, to encourage the intelligent expression of views and expe- 
rience. My own observations among the Nez Perce and Puyallup converts, 
led me to expect some unusually satisfactory expressions, and I was not disap- 
pointed. The testimonies to God's grace, the evidence of a great change, the 
wonderful impulse given to these uninstructed minds, in the reflective turns 
that were taken, and the descriptions of their new stale contrasted with the 
old, bringing out lines of thought unprompted by us, unpremeditated by them, 
all boie witness to their spiritual understanding of the truth, and showed that 
they had begun to experience its blessings, and live according to its precepts. 
None of our proceedings were conducted in haste ; Mr. Young was acquainted 
with every case. Indeed, two years' work was now being concentrated. 
Some of these replies would be interesting to you, and I would transcribe them 
jf space permitted. 

Our interpreter, Mrs. Sarah Dickinson, rendered invaluable service. Being 
herself a christian of long experience,, she understood the spirit and purport 
of many a question which an unconverted jjerson could not. 



Voyage to Alaska. — Historical and Descriptive. 23 

These hours were very precious. The interest deepened. Emotion arose 
and overrtowed, as these men and women, so recently lost in heathenism, gave 
'n their testimony to the love of (rod, and to the presence of Ilis S|)irit in 
their hearts. A rapid developement of christian character was very notice- 
able, being aided doubtless, by the time given for prei)aration, and the fre- 
quent interviews with the candidates. I took pains to explain to them all, the 
nature of the church and its ordinances, change of heart, profession of religion, 
and the obligation of the christian life. I was careful to ascertain first that 
the inter|)reter herself, understood m.- in all these vital (juestioiis. lirotliL-r 
Voung, who was disabled by accident from active service, assisted me by his 
counsels, without which no sound progress could have been made, and the en- 
tire transaction moved on with the utmost harmony to the consummation ; and 
ihe tranquillity which was the very peace of Ciod, pervaded it all. 

When the? bright marning came, the most distinguished Sabl>ath in the an- 
nals of .\lask.a, the public services began with a prayer meeting, after which I )r. 
Kendall preached. Brother Voung, though scarcely able to stand, performeil 
the rite of baptism ; and your commissioner had the honor to execute thie task 
of organizing the Church of God. 

HISTORICAL STATEMI:NT FRO.M THE CHURCH RECORDS. 

I i)egan by reading a brief account of preliminaries. As it contains a few 
items of veritable history, I transcribe it from the minutes of the new cliurch 
wherein these words are recorded : 

Fort Wrangel, Alaska, Aug. 3rd, 1S79. 

The need of christian effort was felt by a few christian people, who lived in 
this Territory or visited it, and my own sympathies were moved by the infor- 
mation which I ol)tained from them and other sources. 

After various delays, I had the inexpressible satisfaction of taking charge 
of this mission through the agency of two members of my church at I'ortland, 
Mr. J. C. Mallory and Mrs. A. R. McF'arland. < This charge was afterwards 
assumed by the Board of Home Missions, which also sent hither the Rev. S 
H. Voung, who arrived in August, 1878, and immediately entered upon hi^^ 
duties here. 

The services of these faithful missionaries and teachers have been crowned 
with God's blessing. Nor should we forget the departed. John C. Mallory 
and Philip Mackay should be forever sanctified in the hearts of those who knew 
them here, for their prayers and efforts and faithfulness. They deserve this 
tribute. Let their names be kept in aflectionate remembrance by this church. 

Two firm friends of Alaska who are strenuously supporting its claims to 
the attention of the American people. Rev. Henry Kendall, D. IJ., one of 
the Corresponding Secretaries of the Board of Home Misssions, under whose 
fostering care this mission churjh and school are carried on, and future missions 
in Alaska will be conducted; and Rev. .Sheldon Jaclcson, D. D., Synodical 
Missioaary of the Synod of Colorado, are present and have assisted by their 
counsels on this occasion, and participate in the services of this memorable 
day. 



;4 Sketc/ies of an jExtti/'sioH tv Southern Alaska. 



At the last meeting of the Presbytery of Oregon, to whose jurisdiction 
Alaska belongs, I was appointed to visit Alaska to examine the missionary work 
and to organize a church at this place if the way were prepared. 

I am ihanktul to the Head of the C'hurcli for the degree <■■>[ success which 
has attended faithful christian labor here. 

MEMBERS. 

The names of those who were to constitute the new church were then an- 
nounced. Four were received from other churches, one white man and eigh- 
teen natives on profession. A few days after, several more were added. 

Vou can judge of my interest in the group that surrounded me, when I state 
that all the whites except Miss Dunbar stand in a near relation to me. Mrs. 
Voung, the wife of the missionary and daughtei of Rev. Lewis Kellogg, a 
ven^ral^le minister of our church, being my neice; Mrs. McFarland and Mrs. 
N'anderbilt, members of my church ; one of the white men who joined on pro- 
fession, a former member of my congregation ; and the other, the carpenter 
whom I had employed and sent thither. 

The organization by formal vote adopted the name of the Presbyterian 
Church of Fort Wrangel, Alaska; and })laced itself under the care of the 
Presbytery of Oregon. 

When we stood in a circle and with hand joined to hand entered into the sa. 
cred vows and engagements of the visible church of God, the scene was very 
solemn and affecting. 

Among those who joined were three chiefs and two counsellors of chiefs, 
three of whom spoke at the Glenora conference. 

In the afternoon the ordinance of the Lord's .Supper was administered by 
Dr. Kendall to the new church and to invited guests. The Rev. W. H. R. 
Corlies, M. 1)., and his wife partook with us. They are independent Baptists. 

The organization was completed, with the exception of the eldership, on 
the Wednesday following by the election of the Board of Trustees, and of 
Rev. S. H. Young as pastor. 

"The darkness is passed and the true light now shineth." May it shine 
forever with increasing brightness, and its rays penetrate the surrounding gloom 
and kindle the watch fires of salvation along this Coa.t and throughout this 
Territory. 

INTERVIEWS WITH NATIXES. 

Mo.NDAY, August 4, 1880. 

I had an interview with the Chief of the Awk tribe — a branch of the Tlinket 
family. This man was at our services yesterday. He desires for his people 
what we are doing for the Stahkeens. 

While this was going on the young chief Shaikes entered, and the room 
was soon filled with natives. As a conference was evidently pending, I sent 
for Drs. Kendall and Jackson. The chief said : — 



Geographical. — Climatic. — Population. 2 5 

"Since I heard what you said at Glenora, I have felt differently. I have 
made up my mind to learn more about God. 

Last winter my brother died, and I wanted to die also. I tried to save my 
brother, but God took away his breath. I was angry, I cherished hard feel- 
ings against Him. But now my heart is tender. I do not reproach Him. 

I have long wanted to see how white people lived — how they made steam- 
boats and newspapers. But I never thought I could till Dr. Lindsley invited 
me to visit Portland. This makes my heart full. 

Your people are prosperous and strong. I want my people to be the same. 
Your hyas tyhee [the President of the U. S.] is ours. Why does he so long 
neglect us? We want justice. I will always support the magistrate and the 
law. 

Many Indians gather here from all points. They see what you are doing 
and want the same. I want you to give me a strong paper anthorizing me to 
act for you. It will help me to keep down wrong practices and protect the 
people. I will see the sick and the poor cared for. We want laws to punish 
crimes and to keep down evil. 

Dr. Lindsley's words were so kind and strong I shall do as he says. It 
made me very happy. After this, the names of the Stahkeens will be written 
as your friends. This will be our distinction. I come to you as to friends." 

After rcLp.arks by Drs. Jackson, Kendall and Lindsley, and a prayer in Chi- 
nook by Mr. Young, the interview closed. 

At Glenora I was convinced of the great desirability of giving some of 
these men the opportunity to come in contact with civilized life ; I accordingly 
invited Shaikes and Kadishan to visit Portland and spend a month there as 
my guests. To this invitation, Shaikes refers in the foregoing speech. 

During this week the natives provided two entertainments for us — very 
unique and interesting — at which speeches were also made, both by the na- 
tives and visitors. 

At the last, provided by Shaikes, there were seventy or eighty whites and 
more than two hundred and fifty Indians. Of all my interviews I have full 
notes in my possession, but have no time to collate them for these pages. I 
must particularize two other interviews, which I had this week, as giving an 
insight into character. 

Shaikes and Kadishan with a few of their tilicums called — the object being 
to be reassured of my sincerity in inviting them to visit me at Portland. Up- 
on cordially repeating it their delight was unbounded. No doubt now of my 
love for them since I would do this. Dr. Lindsley had their >^yas delate tuin- 
titnis — their warmest gratitude. They would give him every thing and do ev. 
ery thing he wanted. This state of (eeling was at once turned to account to 
further the objects of my visit. To enlighten and guide, the leaders of the 
people, are aims of the highest character. Brother Young rejoiced in the 
moral power gained. He said "Hyas closk waiva". This is the best inter- 
view. Other conferences were confirmatory of our influence : this is the 
climax. 



2 5 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

I WAWA WITH KAKEE, 

Head Chief of Lower Chilkat town, 200 miles distant, who entered with 
six of his retainers. All fine looking, some blanketed, and some, like Kakee, 
wearing "civilized" dress. They called, on my invitation. I told them o' 
our efforts to see them in their country, and that I much desired to get ac- 
quainted with them at their homes. I wanted to know their minds about our 
l^eachers and schools. I rehearsed the condition of Indians in the United 
-States, and how we wanted to save all the Tlinket people. Mr. Young spoke 
to the same effect. The men gave the keenest attention, and evidently under- 
stood some of the main bearings of the question which we were pressing home 
upon them. When Kakee replied they watched him closely. He said : We 
are all very anxious to have you come up the rivor. Chilcats don't know any- 
thing, but we want to learn. All have the same mind. We want to be taught 
like our brothers the Stahkeens. We want churches and schools. We looked 
for your coming. 

I said : We want to send teachers as soon as we can— not many moons 
before they will come to you, we hope. We expect you to wait for them. 
Mr. Young will tell you when they come. 

Kakee. — We very much wish a missionary and teacher. On no account 
will we turn away our hearts from them. P'ormerly we thought white men 
were all bad ; now we know some are not. I trust your promise to send teach- 
ers. I believe the teacher will come as sure as if I saw your canoe at my vil- 
lage. 

As the interview continued, my interest was almost painful. The Chilcats 
are the most numerous of the Tlinket tribes, and would be the most powerful 
if they were located as favorably as the Stahkeens. They have hitherto kept 
out foreigners. No man has ever surveyed the interior of their country, un- 
less it has been done clandestinely. I am therefore very anxious that they 
should open unto us. And now God is showing us the way through the Fort 
Wrangel mission. 

ADJUSTMENTS — AUGUST II. 

I was engaged on a readjustment of some parts of the plan for the Home 
buildings. A statement of accounts and of expenditures on the church and the 
Home buildings, respectively, had been made out at my request, and it was as' 
certained that I had become responsible for more than seventeen hundred dol- 
lars on materials ordered from Portland and on freights, all at reduced rates. 
Tliis statement was laid before all the parties concerned and assented to. 

WAWA FI.NAL — AUGUST 12. 

There were present Mr. Young, Dr. Kendall, Dr. Lindsley and Mr. Cor- 
Ues, together with Kadishan, Moses, Aaron, Mathew, Lot and others, all 
members of the chu»ch. The conference discussed the importauce of having 
What we would call a superintendent of Indian affairs, for Alaska. The Indi- 
ans spoke with unexpected intelligence and marks of reflection. They especi- 
ally urgei some forms of law and magistrates. They gave illustrations of abil- 



Geographical. — - Climatic. —Population. 2 7 



ity to consider a subject in its various relations; and, as I listened to them, I 
roulil not fail to observe two different thln;^s: the brinc;in^' out of different 
points in the different minds, yet all showing; the bearings upon the main thing, 
and the power of expressing their thoughts. 

Our visit was pronounced by them to be decisive. The building of the 
church fixes the Tlinket mind upon us. I was anxious on all occasions to have 
them commit themselves to us. I drew out this in several instances, with 
pledges of their support and obedience. Their piety was displayed in the 
most unexceptional expressions, unprompted by us. I said to them, among 
other things : In my report I shall take notice o( what you have said. You 
must pray God to send you wise and just men for rulers and magistrates. Yo" 
know we want to send teachers to the other tribes. We will do it as soon a^ 
we i;an. In this way we hope to reach and bless all the Tlinket people. There 
will be a number of churches and schools, but one great brotherhood united in 
'^he love of our Saviour. We want the Tlinket people to stick together, and 
to be faithful to us [lively expressions of assent]. 

By request, parting words were said in prayer by Dr. Lindsley, and trans- 
lated by Mrs. Dickinson, and followed by the benediction form Dr. Kendall- 

During the interview the feeling of interest and the glow of christian sym- 
pathy deepened. But I will not attempt to describe it. 

In drawing the descriptive and historical part of my Report to a close, I re- 
mark that many items of decided interest have been omitted. Indeed, some- 
times it was difficult to determine which of several items should be chosen to 
serve as illustrations. I have been careful to avoid distortion and exaggeration. 

I addressed circulars containing leading questions on the Civilization of 
Alaska to men of every class, who were qualified to answer intelligently. 
These answers will form the basis of a Report and Petition to the Government, 
which were partly prepared before I left Alaska, by Mr Younji and the under- 
signed, to which was ap]5ended influential signatures. 

.\ug. 13, at 1.30 P. M., we bade adieu to hosts of friends, and began our re- 
turrr voyage. 

With earnest desires for the speedy enlightenment of all parts of our Coun- 
try, I remain 

Your friend and servant, 

A. L. LINDSLEY. 



REPORT NO. IJ, 
Geographical. — Climatic, — Population. 



1 take pleasure in acknowledging my indebtedness, for favors extended 
throughout my voyages and visits, to gentlemen in Oregon, Washington Terri- 



28 Sketches of an Excursio?i to Southern Alaska. 

fory, Alaska and British Columbia, for letters and suggestions which I found 
to be, in many instances, of grea*; value to the cause. I was everywhere hos- 
pitably received, and in not a few cases recognized by former acquaintances 
My connection with the Alaska Missions, which has been generally understood 
from the first, gave me immediate access to the persons whom I most desired 
to see. I take equal pleasure in being able to say that I found present and 
former members of my church and congregation at various points along the 
route, and even to the remotest. The meeting of persons whom I had lost 
sight of was a irequent surprise to me, as well as a gratification. Such exten- 
sive recognition helps our cause. 

SURVEY — PROSPECTS AND LOCALITIES. 

My plan for missionary operations, for the present, embraces the entire 
Tlinket people of eleven tribes, aud the Hydahs. This was my original idea 
of the work ; and all my observations since, confirm its expediency. This ex^ 
plains my aim in uniting the Tlinkets of every tribe upon us ; and in getting 
their undivided support of our measures. 

The various divisions of the field came under my frequent inspection and re- 
view, in conference with the Rev. S. H. Young, who had spent a year in the 
Territory, and with whom I was in daily intercourse. 

GEOGRAPHICAL CONTOUR. 

I invite you, first of all, to inspect a map of Alaska, cast on Mercator's Pro' 
jection. It is impossible to receive a correct impression, either of the outline 
or the trend of the coast, by consulting maps cast on the globular plan. 

Now you observe that the coast curves westward with northern iaclinations) 
from the mouth of Portland Channel at 54° 40' north latitude, to Prince Wil- 
liam Sound, which is the summit of a very obtuse cone; proceeding westward 
still with southern inclinations, to the extremity of the great promontory called 
the Peninsula of Alaska; then the Aleutian Islands following the trend far 
away toward the continent of Asia. 

DISTANCES. 

Taking 54° 4°' as the base line, we follow it across the trackless water^^ 
through 35° of longitude to Ounimak, an island separated by a narrow channel 
from the mainland, a distance of one thousand four hundred miles. Dropping 
a line from the entrance of Prince William Sound to 54° 40', it measures three 
hunflred and fifty miles. 

The distance between a few prominent points : from the boundary line to 
Fort Wrangel, one hundred thirty to one hundred forty miles, as the naviga- 
tion goes; from Fort Wrangel to Sitka, on a similar course, one hundred sixty • 
miles; from Sitka to Kodiak, seven hundred; from Kodiak to Ounimak, four 
hundred fifty. The distance to Ounalaska, the nearest and largest of the Aleu- 
tian Islands, from Kodiak, is six hundred. 



Geographical. — Climatic. — Population. 2 9 



CLIMATE — ^JAPAN CURRENT. 

With considerable regularity the trend of the oast describes a vast circular 
arch or curve. The peculiar configuration' of the mainland coast, is made 
the more remarkable from the fact that ihe o:ean waves beat against the bar- 
rier of lofty m )unlain-;, on the inland sides of which, almost perpetual winter 
reigns, and on the seaward side, the verdure of perpetual spring. This de- 
scription, like many others in this connection, is intended to be understood in 
general terms. There are numerous exceptions ; but they are very limited in 
extent. On island and mainland a few lofty peaks are always in view, rising 
above the mountain horizon, whose summits are covered with snow. All the 
islands, even the largest, share in the seaward characteristics. 

The simple explanation of this vast diversity in the climate is in the ocean 
current, ever flowing deep and irresistible. Starting from the equator on the 
Asiatic side, and rushing onward, it branches at the Islands of Japan, from which 
it obtains its name. One branch, proceeding eastward, beats upon the shores 
of the vast concave ; and it seems to pause before the rocky barrier curved 
around it, until its resistless forces overcome the obstructions and it rolls north- 
ward and loses its identity in the chill embrace of the North Pacific Sea. In 
the great concave this current distributes itself among the innumerable islands 
until it strikes against the mountainous mainland coast. 

The two large inlets are Prince William Sound and Cook's Inlet, alcng the 
coasts of which, the same climatic influences prevail. The islands along this 
coast are estimated to exceed ten thousand in number. Most of these lie be- 
tween 54" 40' and Lynn Canal, the northen extremity of this wonderful inland 
navigation, about one hundred fifty miles north of Sitka, and into which the 
the river Chilcat flows, and west of which is Mount Fairweather. 

POPULATION. 

It is said that there arc four distinct races of Aborigines in Alaska; the Es- 
kimo, rany:in2 north of the great curve described in this paper, and extend- 
ing to the Arctic, differmg scarcely any from the people of the same race on 
the opposite side of the continent; the Aleutes, occupying the peninsula and 
the Aleutian Islands; the Kenaians, occupying the coast between Cook's In- 
let and Prince William Sound, and thence extenrjing over the interior eastward 
under the name of the Tinnehs ; and finally the Tlinkets, who shall chiefly 
engage our attention in the remainder of this report, who arc found upon the 
residue of the coast and islands o( the great bend to 54° 40'. I think that these 
divisions will be found in some respects arbitrary; and that the third, and 
probab'y the second, will undergo a rearrangement. 

I mcline to the belief that a large extent of the coast stretching along under 
the shadow of the St. Elias Alps to the Atnai or Copper River, is uninhabited 
except by detached bands of the Tinneh jieople, under the name of Ugalenzes 
and Yukatats. 

The Tlinkets are divided into a number of tribes. The most important o^ 
'hese, are the Chilcat. Tahkoo, Awk, Kake, Hoochenoo, Sitka, Hoonya, 



30 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

Stahkeen, Hanega and Tongass. The Hydahs are confined to the Prince of 
Wales' Archipelago, whither they came from British Columbia. 

I had interviews, long and short, with members of almost all these tribes- 
I aimed to get at their real feelings, and believe that I succeeded. Withou 
a single exception, the desire was expressed for teachers and missionaries. In 
the overture of the Synod of the Columbia to the (General Assembly, 1877, 
the belief was expressed that the spirit of God had in a remarkable manner 
inclined the hearts of these people to inquire after Him. No man could 
have stood where I did this summer, without being impressed with the same 
thought. My report No. I, gives many evidences to the same purport. 
The same impression has been made upon persons who belong to civil and 
military life. I have therefore traced nut an almost universal ctmcurrence in 
this particular. 

I have examined all estimates of numbers within my reach — some printed, 
others made by persons on the ground, interpreters and traders. The greatest 
diversity exists. The highest estimate was that which the Russians reported to 
Gen. Hallock, namely, sixty thousand for all Alaska, twenty-five thousand be- 
ing Tlinkets. No such numbers can now be found there, nor did they exist 
when our nation took possession of Alaska. I take an average number, and 
place the whole Tliiiket population, including Hydahs, at ten thousand. 

If this population were scattered along the coast, their civilization would be 
impossible. But providentially they are gathered in patriarchal or tribal groups 
in localities, some of which have been fixed from time immemorial. The na- 
tives are social, affectionate and attached to their homes. These propensities 
draw them into circumstances very favorable to their enlightenment. 

DESIGNATION OF LOCALITIES. 

We now proceed to designate the most desirable points for beginning opera- 
tions, with this predominant end in view. This has occasioned a great deal of 
investigation. Two points have already been determined, Sitka and Wrangel ; 
another should be among the Chilcats ; and a fourth, among the Hydahs on 
Prince of Wales' Island, probably Cordova Bay; the fifth, is less easily select- 
ed. Tongass River near 54° 40', Hoochenoo Island in Chatham Straits east o' 
Sitka, and Takoo River; each has claims and advantages. But the Hoonyas, 
in numbers and natural advantages, have superior claims. 

The difficulty of .settling upon points for new missions explains my great de- 
sire to visit the different localities. But I was able to arrive at conclusions 
which I cannot doubt will be soon verified. The missions among the Chilcats 
and Hydahs, should be founded as soon as possible. A great advance will 
thus be made along the whole line. 

Again turn to the m.ap. Observe the points indicated — Lynn Canal, Sitka, 
Wrangel and Prince of Wales Island. I incline to place the fifth mission in 
he Hoonya town on Tchichagoff island, or between Wrangel and Lynn Canal. 
In this case, Takoo River and Admiralty Island should be inspected before i 



Geographical. — Climatic. — Population . 3 ^ 

is located. With these five or six missions we would gather around us or bring 
under our influence the entire Tiinket people ; and we would train in our mis- 
sions the future teachers of Alaska. 

I now proceed to explain some of the reasons for confining our work, for 
the present, to the Tiinket people. I am the more desirous to set these rea- 
sons forth at some length in consequence of some wild and unsupported state- 
ments concerning the Alaska tribes, which have gained currency in our church, 
and which if allowed to pass without question might lead the Board to ill-ad- 
vised measures. Dr. Kendall will remember the long conferences which I had 
with him on the steamer Cassiar in the Slahkcen River, in which I explained 
my reasons for opposing the establishment of any missions at the present time 
as far west as Kodiak, and for limiting our mission work to these people. I 
shall not be able to expand my report to the dimensions of my argument on 
that occasion ; but there are incontrovertible data, which understood and adopt- 
ed as the basis of action, will save the Board from the humiliation of failure. 

ADVANTAGES OF CONCENTRATION. 

Our work being confined to the Tlinkets and Hydahs will be in a measure 
Concentrated ; and therefore will have the greater promise of effectiveness. We 
reach various tribes having the same language, customs and traditions, and 
moved therefore by common impulses, inspired by faith in a common destiny 
yet to be awakened by us. We seize the helm of Alaska's moral power. The 
Tlinkets and Hydahs occupy the ground nearest to civilization. The more 
northern Alaskans, as they see the light shining in from the south, will be at- 
tracted by it. The Tlinkets and Hydahs, inspired with the missionary spirit 
under our training, will become the leaders and the teachers of the other Alas- 
ka races. The Tlinkets are less scattered than the other races. Indeed, mis- 
sions to any other tribes would be very expensive, and difficult to maintain a^ 
the present time. 

Beyond Cross Sound to Copper River, the apex of the great arch, there are 
scattered families or groups whom natives teachers should reach. We could 
not employ any "white" missionary among them, excepting as an itineran 
coasting the entire region for hundreds of miles. 

SURVEYS WEST OF CROSS SOUND. 

I was unable to obtain satisfactory information about the Yukatats and Uga- 
lenzes, further west and extending to Copper River. Indeed, it is quite likely 
that a tour of exploration made by a competent man, will be indispensable to 
arrive at any satisfactory degree ot accuracy about the inhabitants of the coast 
from Cross Sound to Prince William Sound, and Cook's Inlet. 

THE KENAIANS. 

On Prince William Sound we encounter the Kenaians or Koniagas occupy- 
ing the peninsula of Kenai lying between Prince William Sound and Cook's 
Inlet, and also the Island of Kodiak. These people, especially those on the 
island, are and have been for many years adherents of the Russo-Greek church. 



32 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 



The children born on the island are baptized ; and there are churches, priests, 
schools and teachers. Thither the two Mennonite brethren went, after trying 
Sitka for a little while, and X could gain no tidings ot them. Westward of 
Sitka, there is no mail communication, no line of ships or other vessels ; in 
short, no regular communication excepting the annual voyage ot a revenue cutter. 
Very few ships ever navigate Alaskan waters. These facts illustrate some of 
the difficulties of any missionary efforts beyond the region occupied by the 
Tlinkets. 

THE ALEUTES. 

Following the great bend westward, we have on the right, the great penin- 
sula, and beyond it the Aleutian Islands. On the way, lying under the shad- 
ow of the peninsula, is the Island ot Ounga, described to me by traders who 
have lived there, as a very delightlul spot, having cultivated fields and gardens, 
the hyas tyhee himself being a priest of the Russo-Greek church, the children 
trained in schools, and the entire community well ordered and prosperous. 

The people who occupy the Aleutian Islands, called the Aleutes, are the 
same as the few scattered inhabitants found on the great penin.sula. A few on- 
ly of these islands are inhabited, many of them are barren rocks, some sub- 
merged at high tide. Probably in some distant geologic age these were a con- 
tinuation of the great peninsula running like a bridge far away toward Asia, 
now detached like dilapidated abutments. 

The Aleutes, insular and continental, were numbered by the highest Russian 
estimate at ten thousand, by the lowest, four thousand. They also are adhe- 
rents of the Greek church. Pleasc inspect the map again. The .\leutes scat- 
tered along the northern shore of the great peninsula do not pass Bristol Bay 
on the north. You perceive then that the country occupied by them is well 
defined : but how difficult to concentrate these people upon any gixen point ! 
Take a survey horn Bristol Bay to Kotzcbue Sound, looking eastward. It is 
reported that plong this great extent of coast there are detachments of the 
Koniagas, or Kenaians, already mentioned. 

The great valley of the river Yukon, is the most striking geographical fea- 
ture of this vast region — almost a terra incognita. I find it impossible to fix 
upon a single point for the introduction of missions. The Greek church has 
been established, as in other parts of the late Russian America, for a long time 
among the people of this region, and churches and priests are found there. 
The priests are for the most part natives, ignorant and unworthy. 

ESQUIMEAUX AND TINNEH. 

From the neighborhood of Kotzebue Sound eastward along the coast of the 
Arctic Ocean and southward toward the valley of the Y'ukon River, Eskimo 
types prevail among the scattered population. Then a variety called Tinneh 
prevails down to the great coast line which we have been considering. 

GEOGRAPHICAL AREA. 

It is difficult to realize the vast extent of the country under our survey. 
Roughly estimated, the continent measures across more than four thousand 



Geographical. — Climatic. — Population. 33 

miles from east to west. That part of this immense interior region belonging 
to AlasKa, is called by one of the very few who have aliemptcd to explore it, 
"the great lone land." It is uninhabited except by a few thousand Eskimos 
and Tinnehs, the highest Russian estimate being twenty thousand. Hut al] 
subsequent information leads directly to the conclusion that this estimate great- 
ly exceeds the reality. 

A Roman Catl-iolic Bishop went far up the river Yukon, with a view to in. 
troduce missions, and returned discouraged. It is reported that he did make 
the attempt at one point only; but of this I have no trustworthy information. 
With the Russo-Greek church rests the responsibility of caring for these souls. 
Let us not disturb it, or attempt to share it at present. With our limited re- 
sources (if men and treasure, we are under obligation to use them to better 
purpose than to expend them upon any portion of the human family so low in 
the scale of intelligence, so little likely to become influential and so difficult of 
access. If we had a surplus of money and men, we would find more impor- 
tant fields along the lines of our present enterprises and among the dominating 
races. Furthermore, it is impossible for us under the ordinary method of con- 
ducting our mission work to reach these people. 

Th's gives you a glimpse of my reasons for discouraging any effort of ours 
in these distant regions. At present it is inexpedient for us to attempt any 
missionary enterprises there, 

CHARACTER OF THE TLINKETS. 

Let us return to the Tlinket people. Their accessibility and their universal 
disposition to learn, are great advantages. They possess elements of charac- 
ter which will make them the most useful and influential christians in Alaska. 
In somj respects they equal the average civilized races. Physically the Tlink- 
ets are a superior race. The women are inodest, fair and good looking. Their 
dwellings are very large, durable, and could be easily transformed into forts. 
Their mechanical skill enables them with few tools to execute a variety of the 
plainer arts, which bear the test of criticism. They are not easily surpassed 
in trade, and in the knowledge of goods. They conduct their bargainings 
with great decorum. Bancroft says, that there are few uncivilized nations in 
which the female sex has greater influence and commands greater respect. 
One cause is that they are comparatively modest and chaste. Both old mej^i 
and old women are respected. 

Lan?sdorff says that, "It is certain that industry, reserve, modesty and con- 
jugal fidelity, are the general characteristics of the female sex among these 
people." To sum up the character of the Tlinkets, they may be called brave, 
shrewd, intelligent, industrious, lovers of art and music, respectful to women 
and the aged, fond of sports and gambling, in superstition unmerciful and cred. 
ulous, in war cruel and treacherous, yet placable; and in short, they possess 
many of the virtues and some of the vices of all heathen races. [Bancroft's 
Summary, Capt. Beanlslee's Letters, Hon. J. G. Swan's Reports, U. S. Mili- 
tary Reports, Major Wm. G. Morris' Report, Rev. S. H. Youn^.] 



34 Sketches of an Excursian to Southern Alaska. 

In my plea for Government aid, I shall. sketch with more detail than is 
found in this paper, the status of the Tlinkets among the uneducated races, and 
ttie great encouragement which theii condition gives to labor for their elevation' 
and to qualify them for future citizenship in Alaska. 

In my next I shall proceed lo give you' a sketch of the work at Wrangel, 
as you have requested me to look into its departments of both Church and 
School; with considerations touching the management of missions to be intro- 
duced in other places. 

A- L. LINDSLEY. 

Portland, Oregon., Sept. 1879. 



REPORT —No. III. 
Plans for Improving the Natives. 



EXPL.\NATORY NOTE. 

The following report was prepared as a supplement to the two foregoing. It was addressed 
to the Board of Home Missions, and at the same time incorporated with the annual report of 
the Executive Committee of the Synod of the Columbia for 1879. Some degree of repeti- 
tion was requisite, as the essential facts were the same. But these facts are in this report ex- 
plained more fully, or represented in a new light. The field was fruitful, and a constant 
restriction was enforced to bring the whole within the limits imposed by the circumstances. 
This remark holds good in relation to all these Sketches. In preparing this for the press, the 
repetitions have been avoided as much as possible. A few have been retained in order to pre- 
serve perspicuity in the narrative, which the intelligent reader will sanction. 



OUR ALASKA WORK. 

Alaska has been spoken of as "outlying territory," as "common ground." 
.Such a view sets at naught the ordinary precedent governing such cases, which 
assign* detached territory to the care of the nearest jurisdiction. There is no 
ground either in precedent or in law for treating Alaska as lying outside of the 
jurisdiction of this Synod. Furthermore, the organic act by which the Synod 
of the Columbia exists, embraced Alaska. It was frequently referred to in the 
General Assembly's discussions of the organic act, as part and parcel of the 
proposed Synod. Its attachment to the Presbytery of Oregon is equally regu- 
lar and positive. The enabling act aforesaid assigned Alaska to this Presby- 
tery as outlying territory not included within the prescribed boundaries of the 
other Presbyteries. 

THE ALASKA MISSIONS. 

Have been exciting much interest, and the want of accurate information 
respecting the country and its people seems not to receive the attention which 
it merits. Opinions respecting it are very diverse. On the one hand it is 
affirmed that the whole territory is comparatively worthless, and can never be 
inhaljited by a civilized people; on the other, an extravagant estimate is put 
upon its climate and resources. A similar diversity exists respecting its 
population. Some estimate the number as high as from eighty thousand to 
one hundred thousand; others reduce i I to one-fourth that number, and even 
lower. The character of the natives is reported also at an extreme of con- 
trast. 



Plans for Improving the Natives. 35 

This extravagant vahiatior has been of late industriously circulated in our 
church ; but counter statements have had such weight with tlie Board of Home 
Missions that they resolved to send to Alaska an agent who should examine 
the whole subject of Missions — existing and proposed— and as far as possible, 
arrive at definite conclusions, and report the same 10 them for decisive action. 

In consequence of our having jurisdiction over that vast field, it was proper 
to designate a member of the Synod of the Columbia, for these responsible 
tasks. In pursuance of this appointment, the writer spent more than a month 
in Alaska in July and August, 1879, being constantly engaged in the duties as- 
signed to him. He allowed no available source of information to escape him 
examined existing missions, surveyed the ground with a view to future opera- 
tions, and sought in every way to enlighten the aborigines as to our aims, to 
encourage our friends, to conciliate opponents, and to attach them all to our 
cause. The occasion was very grave, and yet very animating. It required the 
best powers which a man could bring to it, illumined by Divine wisdom. 
With painstaking and conscientious collocation of facts and comparison with 
providential disclosures, the agent of the Board sought to ascertain God's will. 
I cannot doubt that God's Spiiit helped both him and his counsellor and coad- 
jutor. Rev. S. H. Young, to arrive at a comprehensive view, present and pros, 
pective, of the work of evangelizing and civilizing Alaska, thereby reaffirming 
the plans which were adumbrated in my earliest conception of this work, and 
which were developed into proportion and consistency when they were at differ- 
ent times laid before the Board. The plans will be explained in another part 
of this Report. 

A remarkable state of mind has existed for a few years past among the na. 
lives of Southern Alaska, and especially among the various tribes of the Tlink. 
et race. They were losing confidence in the old ways and customs. They are 
powerless to arrest the changes that are thrust upon them by the intrusion of a 
superior race. Many of them are eager for instruction, and ready to adopt 
the garb and customs of civilized life. 

But beneath all this was the operation of an invisible power. In the over- 
ture to the General As.sembly, of 1S77, from this Committee, reasons were 
given "for believing that God's Spirit is leading them to inquire for something 
better than they now possess." The proof of this has become more and more 
apparent ; and to this divine influence we attribute the rapid developement of 
our cause among the Tlinket tribes, and its prosperity at Fort Wrangel. 

THE NATIVE TRIBES 

of the southern part of Alaska inhabit the coast and adjacent islands from 54" 
40', extending 400 miles to Chilkat River. They are divided into ten or twelve 
tribes. The Hydahs belong to a distinct family, and occupy the Prince of 
Wales Archipelago. It is affirmed by white people who are acquainted with 
these tribes, that they are in a remarkable degree 



36 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 



SUSCEPTIBLE OF CIVILIZATION. 

They are well formed, p-thletic, and active. Their intelligence is evinced by 
the excellence which the native arts have attained among them, and by the 
shrewd nes.-. and enterprise with which they carry on the trade of that coast. 
In industry they compare very favorably with our other native tribes, hundreds 
being employed annually as laborers in salmon canneries, cod and herring fish- 
eries, and in the active business of the Cassiar gold mines. According lo the 
uniiorm testimony of white employers, they are the best laborers that they can 
find. In view of the fact that th ,t country has for sometime presented the un- 
precedented spectacle of a territory of the United States entirely unprotected 
by civil law or government, these Indians have generally evinced a remarkably 
peaceable disposition, the whites traveling freely among their villages withou 
fear or molestation. 

Without exception, these tribes have all expressed their earnest desire for 
schoi'ls and teachers, seeming to recognize the superiority of the white race, 
and tracing that superiority to its true source — the enlightenment of the mind by 
the acquisition and use of knowledge. To this we add the inspiration of the 
Spirit of God. 

MISSIONARY OPERATIONS AND LABORERS. 

Sitka and Fort Wrangel are the only points at which schools have been es- 
tablished. At the former, our school was suspended in consequence of the 
removal of Miss Kellogg to Fori Wrangel, on her marriage with our mission- 
ary, Rev. S. H. Young. Rev. J. G. Brady, who was appointed as missionary 
lo Sitka, resigned after a few months' trial. The beginning of our mission at 
Fort Wrangel is too well known to need rehearsing in the Synod. For the 
history I refer inquirers to the first Report. At Fort Wrangel, the missionary 
in charge is Rev. S. H. Young. He arrived there in August, 1878. Mrs. A. 
R. McFarland is mistress of the Industrial School for girls; she arrived in Au- 
gust, 1877. Miss M. J. Dunbar, teacher in dny-school, arrived in July, 1879. 
These are under the appointment of our lioard of Hoi..e Missions. Rev. W. 
R. Corlies, M. D., and his wife, arrived in June, 1879. They are Baptists, 
open communion, and independent. Dr. Corlies has begun the practice of 
medicine, and Mrs. Corlies is engaged in teaching a school for Indian children. 
Two day-schools, beside the Industrial School, are now in operation at Fort 
Wrangel. 

The labor of our missionaries at Fort Wrangel have been arduous and try- 
ing, in an unusual degree ; but they have been prosecuted w-ith courage, dili- 
gence and undeviating devotion. The laborers have been sustained by faith 
in the cause, and trust in their Master; and in one congregation at least, pray- 
ers for them and their work are seldom omitted. Indeed, every one of these 
missionaries, both at Sitka and Wrangel, ihchuling Dr. and Mrs. Corlies, set 
out from the pastor's home in Portland for their work, set apart anew in con- 
ference and prayer. 



Plans for improving the Natives. 37 

\ 

Tlie pro])araii(>:i of t]ic grniiKl for a church and a school had been going on 
for a nimith ox two; a builder einjilojred and sent up from Portland had been 
engage<l in preliminary work; and now there was landed a large assortment of 
biii'dinj; material purchased wiih funds contributed at Puriland, Tiiat was a 
bri^^h: day. All visible sgns were au--picious. The heavens smiled, and God's 
presence filled our hearts with gladness and hope. 

CHURCH AND SCHOOL BUILDINGS. 

Thenceforward the work on both church and school-house was prosecuted 
with vigor. The latter was to be built by funds collected at the East — the 
former, by funds not then provided. But the need of a House of Worship, 
and ihc impirtance of building it at this time, were imperative. A year's de- 
lay would be ruinous. With seven hundred dollars from Portland, to start 
with, we undertook the buddings of the Church, in the belief that contributions 
would surely be made to save us from pecuniary loss. This building will soon 
be ready both for Pu!)lic Worship and for School. 

liut a brighter day was dawning. The most memorable event which ever 
took place in Alaska was the visible 

ORGANIZATION OF THE CHURCH OF GOD 

at Fort Wrangel — an event which bears date, August 3d, A. D. 1879. I' 
was the first church ever formed by American Christians in Alaska. It was 
composed of natives and whites. Careful examination preceded the admission 
of each member. An account of this interesting occurence is given on a 
previous page. 

ON THE HOME, OR INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL BUILDING 

the woik has been suspended for lacli of funds. Nearly all the finishing ma- 
terial, the hardware, and shingles, have been provided and paid for; but mon- 
ey is needed to pay the workmen, and for rough lumber. The rent of the pres- 
ent premises is a serious burden on the mission-finances. The house is not 
adapted to the purpose, and much increases both Mr. Young's and Mrs. Mc. 
Farland's cares. The vigor and usefulness of one great department of ou- 
woik is abridged by the want of a suitable house, which is already half pro. 
vidf-d for. The building of both church and school-house is having a powerful 
influence upon the aborigines. They see in these structures a visible proof, 
both of our interest in ihem, and the permanency of our plans. Our visit and 
our I'uidlings have attracted ihe notice and the presence of members of differ 
ent tribes from various and dibtant localities; and have drawn from them ex- 
pressions of earnest desire ''or teachers and missionaries. A prolonged suspen 
sion of these works would therefore react injuriously upon the irihabitants. 

LOCALITIES FOR MISSIONS. 

One of the chief objects of this tour was to examine the spiritual wants and 
destitu ions of Alaska with a view to the introduction of new missions. The 
destitutions are evideni enough from the fact that overall that broad region no 
regular efi"ort to evangelize the natives has ever been made until very recently. 



$S Sketches of an Exaaswn to Southern Alaska. 

I 
The Greek Church for many years has had priests, churches, and schools in 

various parts of Alaska, and many native proselytes were won over to that 
faith. But there are tribes who were never proselyted, an.ong them the Tlink- 
ets, whose condition we are now considering. The Romanists made no direct 
effort until after our missions were introduced; and no systematic movement 
was made by Protestant or American Christians, until we undertook it. Al- 
though we have introduced only two missions, the field remains open to us to 
this day. The work of evangelizing these people seems to have been allotted 
to us in a remarkable manner. 

After careful comparison of facts and opinions, the writer still advocates the 
restriction of our missions to the Tlinket people for the p7-csent. It can be 
shown that their intelligence, aptitude, and vigor qualify them, under the in- 
spiration of God's Spirit, to convey the Gospel to the distant parts of the con- 
tinent. Ard our vvork will be well done, if we can secure and qualify them 
as the future teachers of Alaska. I do not advocate restriction in any such 
sense as to keep us from establishing missions in any other promising localities; 
as for instance, among t'le Kenaians, whose territory is contiguous to the Uga 
ienzes, at the apex of the great arch ; but in the sense of concentration upon 
a given area, with a well comprehended aim in view. With these explanations, 
we proceed to designate the localities for new missions. 

I. A powerful tribe called Chilkats occupy the country around Lynn Canal 
and Chilkat River. This canal is the upper extremity of the wonderful influx 
of water from the ocean, which created these islands, inlets, bays, and chan- 
nels — all bathed in the moderate temperature of the Japanese current. The 
physical characteristics of the Chilkat country, its climate and productions, 
difftr in almost nothing from the other regions occupied by the Tlinkets. The 
Chilkat country is dryer and colder in the winter, and warmer in the summer 
than Sitka or Wransjel. 

This tribe numbers one thousand. I had a long interview with Kakee the 
Chief, and with a band of Chilkats, Rev. S. H. Young being present to as- 
sist in the conference. We were contirmed in our impressions that the Chil- 
kats were accessible to Christian influences, and desired the introduction of 
school and teachers. 

The Chilkats are connected by ties of kindred with the Stahkcens, and 
though the distance by canoe-navigation is between two and three hundred 
miles, the former often visit the latter; and many of them come to Fort Wran- 
gel, as other Tlinkets do, for the purposes of trade. Though their country 
is remote from the course of ships, and is the most distant and farthest mland 
of the remarkable district under our survey, yet their constitutional vigor, in- 
tellectual traits, and independent spirit give them a commanding position 
among the tribes, and qualify them for great usefulness after they shall have re- 
ceived the Gospel. 

This mission will be more important in some respects than the one at Sitka. 
It will open the way directly to the interior northward and beyond the Chilkat 
River. I have heard of a tribe, numerous and not speaking the Tlinket ian- 



rians Jar hnprovmg the Natives. 39 

guage, who inhabit a region which has never been explored by while men, and 
who visit the Chilkals for trade. This tribe belongs to the Tinneh people. 
An active and devoted missionary among the Chilkats would soon acquire a 
competen; knowledge of that country and the people who inhabit it. He 
would soon obtain access to them, and be able to shed the light of the Gospel 
among them. He could with God's blessing train some of their young men as 
teachers and missionaries. If it be true that the Tinneh people are scattered 
over the vast interior in families and small bands, it will be a giand expedient 
10 send such young me.i among them to gather them into the fold of Christ- 
This will be in all probability the only introductory method which we .shall be 
able to employ. And I know of no locality that we could possibly select which 
can furnish the facilities for this preliminary work as the Chilkat cotintry. 

n. South of Lynn Canal, the country of the Chilkats, lies Admiralty Is- 
land inhabited by the Hoolznoos. These Indians resemble the other Tlinket 
tribes in all resi)ects. It is reported that there are considerable portions of this 
island susceptiljle of cultivation. The inhabitants have practiced the cultiva- 
tion of vegetables for a long time; and in the rieigl.Lcrl.ccd of ihcir village 
gardens abound. 

The principal village is admirably located, though retired from the main 
channel, on Chatham Straits. This point has attracted my attention from my 
first knowledge of il. Its proximity to the Awks and to the Takoos recom 
mends it, and it is nearer at least by a canoe-day's voyage to Fort Wrangel Oj 
Sitka than the Chilkat towns. 

At the mouth of the river of the same name eastward from Lynn Canal live- 
the Takoo tribe ; and from this point the Tinneh people, roaming over the 
vast interior, can be successfully reached. 

The whole region requires a thorough inspection with a view to the estab' 
Ushment of a mi.ssion at either location. My earnest desire to visit this region 
was frustrated by the fears or the incompetency of the steamboat enrdneer. 
But Mr. Young will make arrangements by which he can visit the country un- 
der the auspices of freindly Indians and member.-, of his church, -who are con 
nected with the families of the Chilkat Tyhees. 

Continuing south-east from Wrangel on the curve of the mainland to Port- 
land Channel near 50° 40', we find the Tongass inlet, and fort and tribe of 
the same name. I saw some of them at Wrangel, who expressed the desire so 
uniformly maintained by them for teachers and schools. I received the im- 
pression that they were not numerous, though intelligent and industrious. 
Fort Simpson, in British Columbia, is readily accessible to them, and then 
have been brought in some measure under the influence of Kcv. Thos. Crosby, 
Wesleyan minister at that place. 

It is inexpedient to establish a mission at present on Tongass Inlet. Is 
would be a wise policy, however, to select a few of the most promising lads 
and train them in oui schools for future service in their own tribe. We shall 
undoubtly adopt this policy in order to reach many of the AUska tribes as 



40 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

altogether the most economical, and most fruitful in ultimate results, as licar 
ing upon the complete civilization of the people. I propose to prepare a mon. 
ograph on this subject for the use of the Board of Home Missions. The diess 
and manners of some members of this tribe, who were visiting at Fort VVrangcl, 
produced a very favorable impression. 

To illustrate the great diversity in estimates of population: General Howard 
received the report of 130 Tongass Indians in 1875 ; Judge Swan, U. S. Com- 
missioner, who visited the tribe about four nionihs later, received an estimate 
of 400. I have heard the number placed as h gh as 700, which is no doubt 
extrav.igant. Rev. S. H. Young, who counted this tribe in 18S0, places their 
whole number at 267. 

ni. Abfeast of the Tongass Inlet is Prince of Wales Ii.land, the southern 
extremity of which overlaps 54° 40', and it is the most sourhern po nt in Alas- 
ka. This great island is the largest of the Alexander Arcnipelago. The cli- 
mate, especially on the coast toward the ocean, the contour of the land, and 
the vegetable productions, all indicate a region as salui)rious and agreeable a 
the most favored spots within the great elliptical arch of Alaska. It is not 
known that the interior has ever been explored. On its coasts and a lja:ent 
isles are several villages and settlements. The population was once numerous; 
but "civilized" vices and epidemics have almjst extinguished some of the 
to.vns, and greatly reduced all. Tiirj ari, h^wevar, h lalreds remiininj, act 
cording to the best accounts, who are open to the ameliorating influences of 
civilization. 

The natives on this island are the Hydahs, Klowaks and Hanegas. The 
Hanagas and Klowaks are Tlinkets. The Hydahs cama from British Col- 
umbia. Their history affords a more interesting chapter than that of the 
Tlinkets, chiefly because they survived some of the prevalent curses which 
have exterminated other uncivilized races when brought into close contact with 
a covetous and dominating people. And it is reported, that diseases once so 
destructive among them, have been less prevalent of late years; and that tiieii 
numbers are increasing. Their survival is due, not to the forbearance of the 
"superior" race, but to their constitutional adaptability to improvement and 
progress. With such aptitudes, the Nass and Simpsian Indians are rapidly 
conforming to the most substantial and satisfactory conditions of civilization. 
The Nass River, Fort Simpson, and Methlakatla Indians, have made a degree 
of progress which should satisfy thj most exacting critics, of their capacity for 
It is true that the faithful labors of these christian teachers have not been 
improvement and for self-government. Let it n^ver be forgotten, that Chris, 
tianily, both leader and coadjutor of progress, has taken them by the hand 
and led them forth. 

The Haidahs of Prince of Wales Island are equally promising. The quali- 
ties to which I refer, are expressed in physical vigor, in courage, and industry; 
in manual skill and ingenuity, displayed in the construction of immense canoes, 
the erection of very large and durable houses, invention and manufacture of 
tools, nets, colors, the practice of arts of design, exhibited in embroidery, en- 



Plans for Imfiroviiii^ the Natives. 4 1 



graving jewelry of gold and silver, carving in wood and ivory, weaving- varioi> 
fabrics, and decorations; the readiness with wtiich they adopt civilized cu>ton2s 
in dress, fiirniUire and manners; and lastly iheir eay;er and hungering desire 
for schools and missionaries. 

There are three or four good localities for missions among these Maidihs. 
Only one miss. on is, however, expedient for the present. 

I designate the IlaiJdis for a full mission not as fif'h in importance, but a*' 
third, that is, next to Wrangel and Siika. But I would not locate it unlil \ 
had explored the island sufficiently to arrive at intelligent and well balanced 
conclusions. I designate this archipelago, on account of its geographical po. 
sition — a reason which needs for confirmation only a glance at the map. And 
I propo.ve it also on account of the connection which subsists between the Hai- 
dahs and the Tlinkets. They are neighbors, with whom they maintain inter- 
course for traffic and in social relations. As the predominant characteristic- 
and pursuits of the Hydahs and the Tlinkets are so nearly identical, so theis 
geogriphical location in licates a comm^m interest and destiny. And any com- 
prehensive plan for their improvement must be deduced from the common fact^: 
and principles. It remains for us in the Providence of God to shape their des- 
tiny for all time, as well as for eternity. My daily prayer is that God will 
show us His plan, and give us grace and wisdom to prosecute that, and no 
other.* 

I have now conducted you from the apex of the great elliptical arch east- 
ward and southward to the boundary line. In most of the voyage we have 
had plain sailing, and cook observations over the entire landscape. Let us re- 
turn to two of the ports, which we purposely passed by. The first is Sitka, 
which requires only a few observations. 

THE SITKA MISSION 

can be immediately re-opened upon the arrival of a missionary. Room can be 
obtained as before of the Government, rent free, for schools and public wor" 
ship ; and accommodations for the family on the same terms, or at nominal 
rent. Unusual care should be exercised in the choice of a missionary for this 
place. It is a position of unusual importance, owing in part to the fact that 
Sitka is the principal rendezvous of the United States Government, ( so far as 
it maintains any in this forsaken Territory,) and in part to the fact that infor- 
mation from distant sections of Alaska, and from the vast seas that stretch to 
Asia ant' the Arctic, concentrates at Sitka. Ships bound in either direction 
commonly take the "outside passage," and touch at no other port in Alaska. 
Sitka and its surroundings present great attractions to tourists, whose numbers 
are increasing. Miners, traders, trappers mingle in the streets with Russians, 
half-breeds, aborigines — not a numerous crowd, but destined to enlarge. Sit- 
ka is the home of the tribe of the same name, a powerful branch of the Tlink- 
et stock. Members of other tribes congregate here. No indolent, irregular, 

*I am co'istaiitly driven to condense even the substance of my report, and to summarise 
v.'hat I w,jalj like to amplify. 



42 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

unstable or worldly-miiided man or woman should attempt to operate in any 
department of original missionary work, but especially in such a place as Sit- 
ka. The mission calls for an able man, with a well disciplined mind and a 
devotional spirit, fully committed to the work, and determined at any and ev- 
ery cost to succeed in it. The Mission also calls for a school-teacher of a 
similar spirit. 

SAl.IE.NT POINTS. 

It is obstTvaljle that the localities designated for missions are salient points. 
Sitka Is in the same category. The Hoonyas, Yukatats and Ugalenzes, of 
whom practically very little is known — all stretching along the coast from Cross 
Sound under the Saint Elias Alps and Fairweather mountains westward to 
Atna or Copper River — can be reached more easily and frequently from Sitka 
than from any other point designated. The Chilkats and Hoochinoos can 
also be approached with less inconvenience than from Fort Wrangel. 

These facts sustain our plan of concentration. With Rev. S. H. Young at 
the latter place, another like him at Sitka, and a third of the same stamp at 
Lynn Canal, seasonable intelligence could be conveyed along the lines of the 
triangle, harmony and co-operation could be maintained, and their influence 
and efforts could be united upon either point as occasion might require. The 
fourth on Cross Sound, and the fifth at Cordova Bay will complete the num- 
ber of agents required at present, for prosecuting missionary labors in Southern 
Alaska. 

During the military regime in that territory, the aborigines had no reason 
for respecting white men, nor for desiring instruction from them. Thinking 
*11 white men were like those whom they regarded as lawless oppressors and 
destroyers, they entertained only hatred for the whole race. Evils, which are 
nursed and bred into monstrous life in the contact of heathenism with degen- 
erate civilization, flamed up and threatened to exterminate the weaker races- 
There were civilians and soldiers in Alaska who sought to avert or mitigate 
these disorders. Commanders issued strenuous regulations, and suljal terns 
there were who aimed to execute them. But it cannot be concealed that the 
general apathy was far more powerful than all army orders. Incredulity on 
the subject of civilzing the aborigines is almost universal in the army, as it is 
also widely entertained in political circles. This being met by the eager thirst 
of trade which often scruples not at the means of gain, the depressed and help- 
less Indian is ground between the nether mill -stone of remorseless traffic and 
the upper mill-stone of demagogical subserviency — the soldiers being stationed 
around as a police to thrust b.ick into the hopper any Indian who should de- 
cline to be extinguished in that way. 

Notwithstanding the efforts of faithful men, the evils of contact grew fear- 
fully, and without moral and religious restraints. To provide these, together 
with the blessings of common education, the Chairman of your Committee 
was in frequent consultation with the friends of Alaska, among the most stren 
uous of whom were army officers themselves, whose faithful efforts had been 
frustrated by the very want of those influences. We entered the field as the 



Plans for Improving the Natives. 43 

military withdrew, ami the moral landscape was relieved of that grim shade. 
No civil law took the place of the military rule. But l^rovidence stretched 
forth another agency to check lawlt;ssness and to dry up soinces of crime, and 
introvluce 

TilE TRUE PRINCIPLES OF CIVILIZATION. 

By the exhibition of Christian character in word and deed, we won the con- 
fidence of the natives, and found the way to their hearts. They felt the need 
of friends, and at once responded . to the voice of kindness, confirmed by phil- 
anthropic deeds. The strongest power at Sitka was moalr ; and it served the 
purposes of a municipal police, as lori;j as our school continued there. It kept 
the peace, checking even the most turbulent, and ruling down the spirit of 
riot, and the passion for revenge. As bayonets and batteries disappear, 

AN EDUCATED CHRISTIAN WOMAN 

enters the scene, and at once and without knowing it, commands the situations 
J. S'. Oakford, Esq., an English tourist, a gentleman of world-wide observa. 
tion, ••emarked of our teacher, "Miss Kellogg is the most powerful person in 
.A.laska. The Indians will do whatever she wishes." As an example of her 
influence, she arrested a murderous fight, which enlisted the whole tribe, as its 
involved a violation of some of their most cherished customs. The occasion 
was a severe test, since she did not venture upon the scene, but simply and re- 
peatedly sent the dispatch, " No fight." 

THE STRONGEST POWER AT FORT WRANGEL 

also was moral. Bitter disputes which had occasioned bloodshed and demand- 
ed life for atonement, were referred to Mr. Mallory, who was the first of our 
missionaries, with the promise that his decision should be final; and it was 
final. Mrs. McFarland, like Miss Kellogg, passed through the most trying 
ordeals in checking customs of foul injustice and often leading to murder ; 
and she came 6ft conqueror.' 

I must also mention one of several examples of the same prevailing influ- 
ence wielded by Mr. Young. The Stahkeens assembled for the purpose of 
discussing ways and means for sustaining the prestige and influence of ancient 
games and customs, among the most deadly of which was witchcraft. The 
evil of these Mr. Young had unsparingly exposed. He called a council, and 
during his speech was interrupted with violent demonstrations by a counsellor of 
the hyas lyhee. Mr. Young thrust him down into his seal saying, " Be still, 
I have the floor,'" and then finished his address without further disturbance. 
This bold stroke, di.-jjlaying at once the spirit of intrepidity and command, 
overawed the opposition, and greatly strengthened the friends of the new order 
of things, which our mission had introduced. Shustack, an old man, one of 
the supreme chiefs, and a few of the most influential men of the Stahkeen 
tribe, were much displeased, and resolved to adhere at all hazards to the ancient 
regime. 

I heard but one opinion expressed of Mr. Young's course, and that was com. 
mendatory in a high degree. He has acquired over the natives an influence 



44 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 



which is eiTeclualin many respects ; and they come to him as to a m li^isirate" 
lo seule disputes and difficulties, or as to a competent friend for counsel. 

On iiiy arrival at Fort Wrangel, I resolved to conciliate our opponents, or 
disarm them if I could not win ihem over to our cause. 

CONFERENCES WITH CHIEFS AND HEAD-MEN. 

Some of these, and among them both the hyas tyhees, Shustack and Shaikes, 
avoided us. As they seemed to decline my special invitations to an in er- 
view, 1 sought them, deeming it of great importance to show them respect, 
and at the same time lo convince them that our aims in visiting them were un- 
selfish and worthy of their approbation and support. 

I endeavored first to allay suspicion— the prevalent feeling of Indians toward 
white men — and to remove, or at least suspend their prejudices, and thus get 
upon a common foisting, where I could deal directly with theif understandings. 
[ then assured them that wc had no sinister design in visiting them ; that we 
were their friends, and that we were showing what our object was by manifest 
signs in the buildings we were erecting for their people. We labored to make 
the changes we were introducing less repugnant and even acceptable to them, 
by showing the necessity for their adoption, a main point in moving these rigid 
old conservatives. They must conform to the new order of things, or be 
swallowed up in the tide that was rolling in. We drew illustrations from the 
fate of Indians in the United States. We had come a long way to show our 
regard for them, and now we wanted them to show a real interest in our labors 
in their behalf; we wanted them not to stand off. but to look into our proceed- 
ings, for we had nothing to hide. And seeing how much we who were strangers 
desired their welfare, we wanted them to understand it, and put a real value 
upon it. They being chiefs, should take the lead in everything that would 
make their people happy and prosperous; and we knew that they would do 
this when they came to know us better. Finally, we entreated them to trust 
us, until they could understand what blessings we were bringing to them and to 
their people. 

These incidents and experiences go to illustrate principles which are funda- 
mental in human nature, and therefore universal. They touch the common 
bonds and sympathies of brotherhood, and mould them into ties of fellowship, 
and pledges of amity and peace. We respectfully invite the consideration of 
the people and Government of the United States to the true solution of the 
Indian question. 

These conferences, it cannot be doubted, will be fruitful in beneficial conse- 
quences. It illustrates again ihe sufficiency and economy of moral power suit- 
ably directed. The salutary influence of one of these was immediately felt at 
Glenora, B. C, in calming an e.xcitement which prevailed there, occas;nncd by 
threats to rescue an Indian who was in prison charged with crime. l^jut tht- 
moral niomenlum of that interview will be felt forever. I was burdened wiih 
the conviction that the hour was decisive, and that the Lord was there. 



Plans for Improving the Natives, 45 

In these interviews, much that I said was assented to \Vith what we had rea- 
son to believe was sincere cordiality; and even the most obstinate engaged no 
longer to oppose us. 

These conferences did not embrace the natives alone; I conversed freely with 
white men of all classes, the one subject being, the Aborigines — their capabili- 
ties, condition, and prospects. I was gratified to discover a far more favora- 
able opinion of them among the white men who are acquainted with them, 
than I had reason to expect. I report in general respecting the views of white 
men in the Territory, that I heard not of one that would cast any impediment 
in the way of the improvement of the natives. Uniformly, 

THE WHITES EXPRESSED INTEREST IN OUR AIMS ; 

some promised co-operation, and all concurred in the opinion that the protec- 
tion of law should be thrown around the natives, and that they were ready to 
petition the Government for the attainment of these ends. Many of them en- 
tertain just and benevolent sentiments towards the natives. 

To remove a misapprehension, it should be known that our missionaries and 
teachers extend the advantages of missions and schools to the white inhabitants 
as well as to the natives. We aim to benefit both, and make no distinctions. 
Our cause contemplates the highest good of our whole country, and all classes 
and conditions of its inhabitants. It includes all judicious means for pro- 
moting the public welfare, and advocates the rights of all. Regarding this 
view as embraced in my errand, my attention was frequently drawn to 

THE ANOMALOUS STATE OF SOCIETY IN ALASKA. 

The absence of Civil Government continually exposes the inhabitants to all 
the evils of anarchy. No legal process whatever can be issued, because there 
is no court to try it, no officer to execute it. 

To the "white" people, this condition is fraught with great risks. It virtu, 
ally gives a license to the lawless and profligate. Beyond the force of numbers 
brought to act in an emergency and soon disbanded, there is no restraint but 
popular sentiment, uttered not in the public press, for there is none— not in 
conventions, for the people hold none — but in the ordinary intercourse of life, 
and therefore feeble, irregular, and inefficient. 

In law-governed communities, public opinion must be continually sustained 
and reinforced by the various api^liances known to enlightened society, and 
tested by long experience. With these supports, it is often apathetic and inop- 
erative; and this is sufficient to explain why the most equitable laws sometimes 
cease to be administered. In Alaska the support-, of a well ordered commu- 
nity are rudimental and unorganized. Moral influences are weak, and have no 
acknowledged leaders. 

The annual voyage of a revenue cutter, the appearance of a naval vessel, 
the monthly mail and the steamer that transports it, an occasional sail flapping 
over a solitary ocean, are reminders of civilization, government, and law in 
other parts of the world, and no doubt operate as some restraint upon the dis- 
solute and turbulent spirits that seek to shun public observation. 



46 Sketches of a?i Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

But occasions which test all restraints have arisen in other societies, and wil] 
'ioubtless arise in Alabka. The aborigines, exasperated by real or fancied 
wrongs, may be the occasion or the instruments of intestine strife. Unscrupu- 
lous "white" men, playing upon the fears of native ignorance and suspicion, 
for lust or gain, may be the clandestine operators, like managing gamblers in 
mining stocks. There is no reason for supposing that punishment for such 
crimes will fall upon the guilty instigators, but as usual in the United States, 
upon the helpless and deluded victim.s whom they employ and then forsake. 
The dangers that attend anarchy are always present liabilities. No man can 
say that they are not. 

THE EXPOSURE OF THE ABORIGINES 

to unjust treatment in case of difficulty, is fearfully increased. They are un" 
acquainted with our modes of administering law ; they are ignorant of our 
language ; treated with contempt and often abused, they look only for injustice; 
and smarting under a sense of injury, stimulated by the passion of revenge, 
they resort to means of defense or retribution which are justifiable according 
to their code, but which our code takes out of the hand of the citizen and puts 
into the hand of the magistrate. 

When the vindictive blow falls, it smites the innocent if the guilty cannot be 
tound. According to primitive iileas of justice, if a white man inflicts the 
wrong, a white man must expiate it. Then the country rings with "another 
horrible outrage," and the public press groans, and shudders, and calls for the 
extermination of a race that dares to retaliate for unredressed grievances and 
wrongs. Being too familiar with some of these outbreaks on the Pacific Coast, 
1 saw in Alaska the dread foreshadows of similar enormities. 

But our country cannot afford to be unjust to any of its inhabitants. View- 
ing its own struggles for equal rights, il cannot throw contempt upon its history 
by crushing the helpless, nor allowing any dominant class to usurp the posses- 
sions of an inferior race, by fraud or violence, or by the destruction of the 
owners. 

REMOVE THE OCCASIONS FOR OUTBREAKS 

by the impartial administration of justice and the maintainance of equity be- 
tween man and man, and there will be no outbreaks. 

1 have indexed many references to reports and publications touching the 
foregoing subjects; and being desirous of adding to this information the views 
of practical men on the most urgent and practicable points, (and which are 
seldom found in print,) I prepared a series of questions, covering the grciund 
under survey. These were addressed to persons of various opinions, but who 
were qualified by residence in Alaska or familiarity with it, to express intelli- 
gent views concerning its condition and demands. 

.\mong these gentlemen, as well as among all with whom I conversed, 1 
find a remarkable concurrence of opinion touching the duty of the G.>vernment 
to make immediate provision for the legal protection of the inhabitants of the 



Plans for Improving the Natives. 47 



Territory, and for the civilizing of the native population, with a view to thei"^ 
permanence and prosperity as an integral part of the nation. 

I ngard any survey of Alaska as incomplete without an impartial considera- 
tion of this whole subject; and I therefoie propose to present it in the form of 
an address and petition to the President of the United States, with a view to 
Congressional action.* 

THE ESTABLISHMENT OF SCHOOLS 

is a principal part of our plan for ihe civilization of Alaska, and altogether in 
dispensable. 

The Russo-Greek Church introduced schools at several places in the south- 
western curve of the great arch, and a few of these still exist. A skijtch of 
these schools, which I received from a Russian ecclesiastic, shows that in some 
of them only the simplest elementary branches were attempted, and that the 
children of the original native stock were not kept under tuition long enough 
to make a permanent impression. 

Their school at Siika, long ago disbanded, was cited as an example. Schools 
among the Aleutes were more successful. I think no injustice is done by stat- 
ing that the degree of attainment in these schools was exceedingly low, and 
foredoomed to be ineffectual by poverty of aim and influence of surroundings. 
The lever was too slender to hoist the children out of the slough in which their 
parents were wallowing. 

It was n.")t the policy of the Russian Government to train its subjects to in- 
dependent thought; nor of the Russian Fur Company to develop the minds of 
their hunters, except in sagacity to outwit the game ; and Russian ecclesiastics, 
however desirous to enlighten the native population, would have found the task 
beyond their strength, being overborne by the combined influences of tempora 
and spiritual despotism, traffic and general apathy, or ethnical aversions. 
Hence the chief aim of these schools seemed to be to proselyte the children 
and make them familiar with the Manual of the church worship. 

The very moderate results of these schools are cited as decisive objections 
o all efforts to educate these people, on the ground that they are incapable of 
mpro\ement, and must therefore be left to suffer all the evils of ignorance. 
This inference was urged by an intelligent Russian priest, and is entertained 
by a few of the old residents of Alaska. I refer to it to check the growth of a 
pernicious error, which has other roots besides a misguided proselytism. 

Whenever the aim of those schools was catechetical instruction and not in- 
tellectual training, the results which followed could have been foreseen. The 
tasks were irksome to the scholars; the mind was left undisciplined; the prac- 
tical knowledge for which some of those youths were hungering was not com_ 
municated ; and as soon as the school-pressure wa:. removed, the lapse into the 
old state of ignorance was inevitable. 

We cite the results of our Schools as already providing a confutation of thi* 
error. The results have not yet acquired the force of protracted trial, nor the 
*See No. V. Letter to President Hayes. 



48 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

consistent expansion which attends varied experience; but they furnish satisfac 
tory evidence of native capacity, retentiveness, and faculty to turn to accouHf 
what they acquire. We can expect nothing; better than this of any children 
under the sun. 

This conclusion is the impartial judgment of men once prejudiced against 
the sch.jols, as well as of those whose observation led them to the spontaneous 
expression of favorable opinions. 

COMMON SCHOOLS 

should be projected in sufficient numbers to gather in all the children of the 
several tribes. Only the rudiments should be taught ; and teachers and schol- 
ars should be furnished with the most approved facilities. But as all these 
schools cannot be opened at once, 

A TRAINING SCHOOL 

for Teachers must be established wherever a Mission is located, and in con- 
nection with a common school. There will thus be two grades. 

The aim of the Lower Grade will be, in addition to learning the common 
branches, to teach the mind to think and to acquire knowledge for itself. 

The aim of the Higher Grade should be the development of the character 
upon the basis of whatever is sound therein, taking the most approved model* 
and examples known to educators, for general outline and leaving the filling 
in and the filling up to the wisdom of the teacher and the aptitudes of the 
scholar. The wise teacher will humor harmless idiosyncrasies, and indulge 
traditional customs and hereditary tastes that are not inconsistent with true 
progress. The School for Training Teachers should also be furnished with tht- 
simple apparatus that experience has shown to be most useful. 

A BOARDING SCHOOL FOR GIRLS 

was originated at Fort Wrangel designed to protect them from the cruel abuse 
of marriage customs and rescue them from a life of infamy. It is also ar, asy- 
lum for orjDhans and for girls who are given to the mission. 
This school will be turned to good account in two ways : 

I. By teaching, in addition to the rudiments of mental education, the do 
mestic arts by improved methods, making their houses homes. Out of this 
will expand, 

II. The tiaining school for female teachers. This class of instructors, 
never yet adequately valued in civilized communities, will wield a direct and 
most decisive influence upon the renovation of domestic and social life in 
Alaska. 

AN INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL FOR BOYS 

is the counterpart and corollary of this institution. A project for such a school 
is already outlined. 

These departments of usefulness have connections which require discussion 
and explanation that must be laid before the Board of Home Missions. And 
I am constrained to dismiss the subject with the remark, that I am not pre- 



Plans for hnproving the Natives. 49 

pared to say that any of these schools should be sustained by funds of the 
Board of Home Missions, nor by independent contributions. I am clear, 
however, on the point that the Government of the United States should pro- 
vide accommodations required for all schools and pay salaries of teachers. 
The Government has adopted this policy among the Indians in othei parts of 
the country, with very promising results. In Alaska it can be applied with 
greater prospects of success, and at a much reduced expenditure. 

This is one of the grandest fie'ds of usefulness. The future of Alaska's 
races will he placed in the hands of these teachers. 

A few years' trial of these schools will show whether the Aborigines have 
reached the level of ascent towards a higher civilization, or whether they are 
capable of being qualified for maintaining a creditable rank among the people 
of the United States. On this point the writer entertains not a solitary doubt. 
The Hydahs and Tlinkets exhibit qualities which give them rank equal to tht- 
great majority of emigrants from Europe, who are speedily and without train- 
ing in our schools admitted to the privileges of American citizenship. 

SECULAR VIEWS OF OUR SCHOOLS 

amply sustain the tone of ihis Report touching their usefulness and popularity. 
I have a number of references and quotations of this character. I call attention 
to a few only. The first is from a shrewd and observant correspondent of the 
San Francisco "Chronicle" and the New York "Sun." He writes from 
Sitka, May 15th, 187S: 

I am unwilling to close this letter without an attempt to do justice to the 
intelligent, brave, and self-denying young woman, who has lately established a 
school for the instruction of Indian children. Miss Kellogg is from the state 
of New York, and came out here a few months ago under engagement to the 
Presbyterian Board of Missions. Her school is a notable success ; the scholars, 
already numbering seventy, are bright and quick, and are making excellent 
progress in the rudiments of English tuition; they exhibit a great desire to 
learn, and are apparently warmly attached to their teacher. The old Indians 
also show much interest in the success of the school, and Sitka Jack has taken 
it under his special protection. This school is an excellent enterprise, as it 
instructs the Indian youth in a knowledge of the United States, and teaches 
them to be Americans rather than Russians. For several years nothing had 
been done for the instruction or improvement of these people, and it is well to 
have it taken out of Russian hands, even if the officiating priest felt inclined 
to keep up a school, which he does not. In her modest and scantily furnished 
home, Miss Kellogg is simply a charming young lady, an accomplished musi- 
cian, full of repartee and fun, and as free from cant as if she had never heard 
nor written the word missionary. 

I cite another authority. Major W. G. Morris, special agent of the United 
States' Treasury Department, who in his Report on Alaska, speaks in highest 
terms of commendation of our schools, referring to our teachers by name, and 
saying of them that they are in his opinion " the pioneers of an undertaking 



50 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

which sooner or later must work a radical change in the condition of the natives 
of Alaska and the solution of the ever-vexed Indian question, as far as these 
coast tribes are concerned." 

IN CLOSING THIS REPORT, 

I appeal to the sense of justice which belongs to the American people. If the 
primitive races of Alaska are doomed to extinction, being incapable of surviv- 
ing in the straggle for life, why not allow'the course of nature to extinguish 
them, and forbear to anticipate the catastrophe by injustice or cruelty ? 

It ill becomes a brave and magnanimous people to seize lands and confiscate 
the scant resources of a depressed and vanishing race. Let us preserve as 
relics of a prehistoric past our predecessors on this continent. We invite natives 
of other countries to a full participation in the privileges of our own beloved 
land; here are natives of our soil, children of the first famihes, loyal to the 
flag, brave, experts on land and sea, both producers and consumers. They 
ask not for chairity, nor for exemption from the obligations of American citizensr. 
In peace or war, we pledge them to do and bear their part without dissent or 
dallying. 

They plead not for Indian Agents, but for magistrates ; not for eleemosynary 
institutions, but for schools and churches. They are decayed families, but they 
remember their ancient respectability, which, though they know it not, we 
know is coeval with that of the Teutonic and Gallic nations, the Scottish 
clans and Saxon hordes. They plead for what our ancestors got from abroad — 
the means of enlightenment ; and bid fair to outstrip our ancestors in their 
degree of progress, as modern civilization surpasses all that preceded it. 

Every maxim of pacific statesmanship ; every sentiment of philanthropy ; 
all respect for national honor; every principle of political economy, concur in 
the positions assumed in this Report, and urge the immediate adoption of its 
recommendations. 

All which is respectfully submitted, 

A. L. LINDSLEY, 
Chairman of Executive Committee of the Synod of the Columbia, and 
Commissioner of the Board of Home Missions of the Presbyterian Church. 



Suggestiofis Concertiing Schools — Ways and Means. 5 1 

REPORTS ON ALASKA.-NO. IV. 
Suggestions Concerning Schools — Ways and Means. 

In clusinj; my Second Report, I intimated that I should give you a sketch 
of the work at Fort Wrangel ; and some considerations touching the manage- 
ment of Missions to be introduced in other places. A part of this task was 
executed in my Supplementary Report, and I now propose to execute the 
remainder — all in compliance with the Board's directions. 

The influence of civilized domestic life upon the Aborigines of Alaska, is 
very great. A missionary's wife can, in many instances, be as useful as her 
husband. There are calls which she alone can answer, and lessons which she 
only can leach. 

* DWKIXINUS FOR MISSIONARY FAMU.IES 

must be erected, except at Sitka where rent is nominal. There is no occasion 
for putting much style or expense upon the building. But there may be some 
occasion for the missionary to endure hardships at first. A man of adaptations 
could make himself comfortable in one of the capacious houses of the natives. 
He can make the side apartments suitable for domestic and private life, and fit 
up the spacious interior for school and church — this for temporary use — looking 
to the Providential future for radical improvements. 

A LARGE SAVING ON THE COST OK BUILDINGS 

can be made at the localities proposed for new missions. The natives put up 
houses of timber, round and hewn, which are very strong, and can be made 
very comfortable. A "white" carpenter with good tools can efficiently direct 
native workmen in fitting up buildings of this kind — with some improvements 
in flooring and ceiling- -which will answer a very good purpose, until something 
better can be provided in process of time. But the missionary's abode, what- 
ever it may be, should be made at the outset comfortable, and conformalile to 
sanitary laws. No permanent buildings should be erected, until the eligibility 
of the location shall have been adequately tested. After even a brief experi- 
ment, a change of location may be discovered to be eminently desirable. 

A DWELLING FOR THE MISSIONARY AT FORT \VRAN(;EI. 

must be erected near the Mission Buildings. He lives now in the garrison, oc- 
cupying two separate houses, small and inconvenient, for which he pays one 
hundred and eighty dollars per annum, with incidental expenses that bring his 
rent up to two hundred dollars. But the distance from the new buildings is 
too great for daily trjivel. Yet his duties will require him to be there daily. 

FOR CONFERENCE WITH THE NATIVES 

31 large room should be provided in the missionary's house. They manifest a 
trustful and teachable spirit towards any one who wins their confidence. The 
missionary must secure this position among them, and effectually maintain it. 
The alternative is, utter failure. His principal competitors on the way to this 



52 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

vantage ground are the chiefs. They are clolhec) wi'h hereditary authority uf 
the most despotic and arbitrary nature. It seems never to have been questioned, 
so far as to have led to sedition or insurrection. This unqualified submission 
may be explained by the associations in the midst of which the authority is 
exercised. Being regarded as the great Father of the whole tribe, the 

chief's rule is patriarchal 

like that of the Arabs. The tribe is therefore bound to obedience, not only 
by the ordinary sense of duty, but by the ties of kindred and the impulses of 
affection. These conditions and their influence are speedily detected by a 
careful observer. After this explanation, it needs only to be hinted that a 
leading aim of the missionary is, to compel the respect and gain the confidence 
of the chiefs. If they are conciliated he will have plain sailing into the land- 
locked harbors of the people. But remembering the caution of the ancient 
Oracle, "put not your trust in princes," he will rt/;« to win the people, attach 
them inseparably to the cause, and foster in every way their desires lor the 
salutary changes which he is introducing. Then if the chief sails in, well 
and good; if not, the rising tide will float him in or sink him. I need scaicely 
say, that a wise policy dictates to avoid a collision as long as you consistently 
can; but if the conflict must come, strike boldly for the truth and trust in God. 

We must make all arrangements that promise success. We stand committed 
to the task of establishing modern Christian Civilization in Alaska. With 
God's help we shall accomplish it. But we must employ all means which the 
customs of society, the peculiar traits and dispositions of the people, and the 
laws of nature, put within our reach. 

These reflections occurred to me again and again as I sat a silent spectator at 
the ivawas (conferences) which our Missionary Young held with the natives; 
or when I engaged in them myself, and was impressed with the conviction that 
I was attracting those untutored minds away from their bondage, and attaching 
them to the new cause and new friends. They come to Mr. Young now with 
occasions for advice often trivial, sometimes momentous to them ; and he re- 
ceives them all with uniform kindness, and uses his utmost endeavors to assist, 
relieve and guide them. He has a chieftain's power over them. These inter- 
views are held in his narrow apartments to the great inconvenience of his 
family, and exposing him to many interruptions and much loss of time. In 
the missionary's house a large room is needed for these conferences with the 
natives. A few hundred dollars will be sufficient to erect a rude but comforta- 
ble dwelling near the church and school. 

THE HOME FOR GIRLS AT FORT WRANGEL 

grew out of circumstances calculated to arouse the keenest sympathies and 
immediate efforts for relief. Instances of trading for marriageable girls was of 
frequent occurrence, and excited no attention, unless accomplished by coercion 
or cruelty. Among the natives the price is the purchase of a wife — a chief 
part of the marriage ceremony — differing in no essential from the matrimonial 



Suggestions Concerning Schools — Ways and Means. 5 3 

customs which have prevailed among many nations from time immemorial. 
Sensual white men adopted the custom to abuse it. Our Mission School was 
brought into direct collision with it. Girls begged for protection, and ou 
missionaries interposed. But there was no longer safety or shelter for them 
in their fathers' houses. The largest garrison building was obtained rent-free 
for a year, and the GirPs Home began. The inmates, however, are not confined 
to the class of girls above described. Others who have no guardians, and little 
girls given to the mission are also admitted. For all these, it is an Asylum. 

This institution required a much larger outlay than was contemplated for 
schools at Fort Wrangel. The matron, Mrs. McFarland, is supported by the 
Board of Home Missions ; but all that belongs to the housekeeping, the cloth- 
ing of inmates, and their daily sustenance, has been met in a great measure by 
contributions, chiefly from societies of ladies in the states. The irregularity of 
these supplies has been keenly felt already; and some provision must be made, 
like the steady flow of a perennial spring. The method of scholarships at one 
hundred dollars per annum is meeting only a limited success. There are now 
seventeen girls in the Home, and more will be provided for in the new build- 
ing. It is the intention, however, to teach the inmates as fast as possible, and 
as far as consistent with the time necessarily consumed in school, to do the 
work of the house, and to make their own garments ; and in short, to conduct 
the Home on the most economical basis. Its removal to the building which is 
now being erected for it, will give it room for development into an Inditstrinl 
ami Training School. In it will be taught, in addition to the rudiments of 
mental education, 

THE ARTS OF HOUSEHOLD THRIFT AND SELF-SUPPORT. 

The native women are familiar with some of these, but their tools and uten- 
sils are clumsy, and their methods slow and laboiious. They evince, however, 
both capacity to acquire new arts and eagerness to adopt improved ways. Their 
houses are large, durable, and comparatively comfortable ; and what is most 
needed now, is the modern house-keeper to transform them into homes, and the 
christian mother to train the family into purity, usefulness and intelligence. 

It will thus assume the character of an Industrial School. For this purpose, 
it will require an outfit and furnishing that should be supplied without delay, 
to facilitate this species of education, which is now indispensable to the civili- 
zation of these people. And it can be taught in this school. We shall therein 
gain in thoroughness and efficiency, wjiat our self-denying missionaries will not 
fail to inculcate in social intercourse. Out of this department of the school 
must grow the other, as a tree unfolds its branches from the trunk. Its roots 
are spread in the soil of our nature, but the tree must grow under the fostering 
care of Christianity, and expand in its vigor and utility in the open air of daily 
life, to bear fruit for all who seek its shelter. 

THE TRAINING SCHOOL FOR FEMALE TEACHERS 

must be engrafted upon this stock. This department, therefore, needs not to 
be dwelt upon in detail. Its advantages, like the fruit of a well grown tree, 



54 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

will be co-extensive with all home life, and its salutary influences will be dif- 
fused abroad to transform society. This outlook of the school upon the domestic 
and social renovation of the inhabitants, will alone justify the expediency of 
maintaining it permanently. 

I have thus shown how the original basis of the Home for Girls should be 
expanded upon an area of great and growing usefulness. I do not recommend 
the introduction of such an institution in any other locality. This one will an- 
swer for the Tlinket people. The demand for a similar " Home " exists at Sitka 
and other points ; and we must not be betrayed into inconsiderate steps which 
will involve expenditures that the benevolence of the church will not sustain, or 
the expediency of which in any other place is an open question, until experience 
teaches us. The natural and indispensable complement of this institution is 

A SIMILAR SCHOOL FOR BOYS. 

The purity and well being of the future homes of Alaska demand this pro- 
vision for the young men, with all the force of an absolute law. And their 
secular prosperity requires, with equal urgency, that they be trained to a 
competent knowledge of the common arts and christian habits of civilized 
]ife. No time should be lost in equipping this school, which should be located 
for obvious reasons, at Fort Wrangel, where the Tlinket tribes most do congre- 
gate. The neglect of the physical and manual education of the aborigines in 
other parts of our country, accounts, in a great degree, for the slender results 
following the schools opened for their benefit. 

THE OUTCOME OF BOARDING SCHOOLS 

among the heathen is not in general satisfactory. My own examination of the 
same among Indians on Reservations, leads to the like conclusion. There is 
no adequate compensation. The seed sown seems soon to wither. The 
children slide back into the old life and ways, chiefly, because there is no 
elevation in society ; and the graduates are not numerous enough to create it. 
There is no inducement to rise or improve. In the few whoever felt the inspi- 
ration, it was smothered by the mephitic vapors cf the old sepulchre ; and the 
others who never felt it, had nothing to lose, and subsided by speedily forgetting 
what little they had been taught. 

Bnt when the mental training shall be accompanied with a practical knowledge 
of the mechanical arts and farming, it will supply the means to keep above the 
barbarism of their former state, and the motive will not be wanting. But the 
boarding school does not accohiplish this, because most of the children are not 
gathered into it. I have, therefore, strenuously advocated 

THE INTRODUCTION OF INDUSTRIAL DAY SCHOOLS 

for Indian children on all our Reservations, the Boarding School to be sustained 
and recruited by youth chosen from the day schools, for their promising quali- 
ties and aptness to teach. This class of schools I recommend without qualifi- 
cation, for the Tlinket people. No reasonable doubt of their success can be 
entertained. 



y1 Letter addressed to President Hayes. 55 

The degree of success which has been reached in the schools at Fort Wrangel, 
has already come to the knowledge of the Board, and needs not, therefore, to 
be rehearsed . in this Report. I cannot dismiss the subject in this brief way, 
without expressing my full approbation of the teachers, and my admiration for 
the mental qualities, aptitudes, and progress of the scholars. The Common 
School is the lever, and Christianity the power, which will lift this jieoplc to tho 
(.onomon ground of our modern civilization. 

But this great work should not he carried out by the Church alone. The 
expense is too great. As the advantages of the civilization of Alaska will 
accrue to the people of the United States, so the Government of the United 
States should provide the means, and support the agencies, for the education of 
this long neglected people. 

In my next Report, I shall show the relation of these Schools to the Govern, 
ment, and propose my plan for Congressional action, with such additional 
enforcement as increasing knowledge of the situation is capable of imparting. 
All of which, is respectfully submitted, 

A. L. LINDSLEY. • 



REPORT ON ALASKA. NO. V. 

Relation of the People of the United States to the Civilization of 
the Native Alaskans. — A Letter addressed to President Hayes. 

EXPUNATORY. — 1 his Letter was published at Washington by authority of the President, and 
circulated in Congress and among officers of the Government. Copies in manuscript had 
previously been sent to a few influential citizens. The writer was compelled by arduous 
professional labors, to condense his argument and abridge his illustrations, which together 
might be expanded into a volume. The plea as it stands has already been so effective, that 
the writer is induced to send it forth in this grouping, with the earnest hope that its influence 
may be enlarged and decisive. 

SiTKA, Alaska, July 16, 1879. 
To his Excellency, Rutherford B. Hayes, President of the United States : 

Certain obligations were solemnly assumed by our Government upon extend- 
ing our sovereignty over Alaska. In addition to the ordinary guaranties of 
civil and political rights, the inhabitants were to be incorporated with the 
inhabitants of our Country. No man questions this, who has read the treaty. 

Two things are plain as the sun that shines on the glittering dome of Mt. 
St. Elias. I. That we are bound to extend a government over Alaska. II. 
That we are bound to extend the means of enlightenment to the people of 
Alaska. The Russian Government superintended this obligation through 
officials and stipendiaries of its own. The genius of our institutions forbids 
us to meet the obligations in the same way : but its stress is as great, and even 
stronger. A despotism may survive without intelligence auiong its subjects ; 
a republic, never. Nothing is more clearly settled than that the security of 
our institutions is anchored in the intelligence of our citizens, guided by morality 
and virtue, and sustained by a sense of obligation to the Supreme Ueing. The 
paramount influence of this principle is seen in our System of Universal Edu- 
cation. 



56 Sketches of an Exctlrsion io Southern Alaska. 

We are bound, therefore, to leave no portion of our Country in ignorance. 
This life-giving power must circulate to the extremities to prevent paralysis. 
The law of self-preservation dictates the extension of our enlightening policy to 
Alaska. Our nation, tolerating all creeds and adopting none, should foster the 
spirit of piety among the people, as giving sanction to Oaths and promoting in 
general a conscientious regard for duty. Without this no free nation could 
continue to exist : for self-government is the first law of a free people. No man 
is self-governed who is not regulated by a law higher than the State. That higher 
law is God's, and it brings us before Him. These ideas are accepted substan- 
tially by the great bulk of our people. They determine the educational policy 
of our land, which aims at the training of every child in intelligence and 
virtue. If the preservation of our institutions rests upon these, we cannot 
afford to neglect any portion of the rising generation. 

Modern civilization is a very comprehensive term. It means the benefits of 
invention, the improvement of arts and sciences, the cheapening of productions. 
It means diffusion of knowledge, respect for humanity, and benevolent efforts 
for the exposed and neglected classes. It brings, in short, the means of a 
higher and better life to every man's door. But the diffusion of these blessings 
is not in proportion to their freeness and abundance. They are barred out by 
Sloth and Ignorance, and the troop of vices which always lurk in their shadows. 
They create the dens of infamy. They hatch the serpents that sting the body 
politic, and the vultures that hasten to the prey. The welfare of a nation is 
made up of the welfare of the individuals that compose it. And if we would 
promote the welfare of our Country, we must carry these blessings to the hearts 
and homes of the outcast and neglected classes. 

They will not seek the good, because they are like children, they cannot 
appreciate it. The uplifting of a people starts from no inward promptings. 
It always comes from extraneous sources. There is no authentic example of 
a tribe or nation which has risen from primitive ignorance or barbarism into 
civilization by an indigenous inclination. Examples occur in history of indi- 
viduals who have struggled to rise above their environment of earthliness — 
like Milton's account of the creation of the king of beasts : 

Now half appears 
The tawny lion, pawing to get free 
His hinder parts : then springs, as broke from bonds, 
And rampant shakes his brinded mane. 

These are kings of men who have imparted the magnetism of their own inspi- 
ration to a few contemporaries, whose united exertions have propelled their 
people along the ascent. But these instances of success are very few in com- 
parison with the hosts that fill the ranks of stupidity and barbarism, destitute 
of any aims or aspirattons. 

The notion seems to be widely diffused that the people who do not avail 
themselves of opportunities of progress and culture, are not worth saving. It 
is the voice ot might against weakness, often thoughtlessly uttered, and often 
with secret congratulations on one's own success in the struggle for life and 
distinction. The current flows resistlessly onward : let him swim who can, the 



A Letter addressed to President iLay'es. 57 

rest gj under. It is a hard-hearted and cruel dictum. It consigns every man 
who begins to faint and needs a little help to despair and death. It is the 
heathen custom modified, which got rid of aged parents with the least trouble — 
polished into the cool Platonic disposal of helpless poverty, by allowing it to 
perish as soon as possible. This notion is popular in certain influential circles, 
and is reflected by '.he public press. If it should finally prevail, there would 
remain but little hope for not only the aborigines, but also for the depressed 
and exposed classes of any other race. The retributions that have fallen upon 
royal tyrants shall descend again upon republican society when it rules in the 
interests of property and commerce, regardless of the actual producers and 
laborers. 

Public opinion on the management of the Indians needs rectifying. .Success 
and especially the means often used to gain it, have a tendency to harden the 
heart. Scientific speculations about the origin of the human race, and cognate 
topics, are sensibly coloring the views of many, and rebuilding the old barriers 
between races which commerce and Christianity were breaking down. Greed 
lusts after the Indian's lands, and pretexts are found for dispossessing him. 
The army is called upon to suppress outbreaks thereby created, and demands the 
oversight in the peace which it is required to restore by war. Politicians are 
ready to advocate any side which is likely to become popular. But I have 
great faith in the final verdict of the American people, when once informed of 
the facts in their just relations. And I do not, therefore, despair of the cause 
I am advocating. Let us bestow a glance upon a few of the facts. 

The treatment which the Native Races have received from Europeans, dis- 
plays a melancholy history of cruelty and cupidity. The Spaniards coveted 
the rich lands and the richer mines of the natives of the southern sections of 
this Continent, and to obtain them no cruelty was too barbarous. The only 
check to their extermination was the religious zeal of the Catholic missionaries. 
"Americans" followed on the northern track; and the history of their progress 
IS written in blood and flame, before which the Native Tribes have almost 
disappeared. Further north, the British and Russian fur-hunters have pursued 
a less inhuman policy, and employed the natives to track and trap the fur-bear, 
ing animals, on land and sea. Their lives were spared ; l)ut greed sought them 
in as deadly and more cruel forms by the introduction of poisonous intoxicants, 
and the vices and diseases of a cast-oft civilization. These combined influences 
have carried off" vast numbers of the native population on the islands and along 
the shores of the northern section of the Continent. The statement of these 
fact.'^ will bear a far deeper coloring. Let it be considered in the light of our 
modern advantages and our increasing sense of responsibility to promote the 
welfare of our fellow creatures. My plan for Alaska will thus gain a more 
candid hearing, and a fairer judgment at the bar of conscience and in the do- 
main of liberal sentiment. 

That any portion of the humau race is incapable of improvement rests upon 
hypothesis alone, which authentic history dispels. It is, however, frequently 
urged that there are barbarous races that are irreclaimable. First. Because 



58 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

they have dwelt so long on the borders of civilization without acquiring its spirit 
or yielding to its influences. Secondly. It is urged to support the theory of De- 
velopment, a leading "axiom" of which is "the survival of the fittest." If 
however, they only survive, who are best adapted to maintain the " struggle 
f )r life" against the adversities of foes and climate, then the Alaskans belong 
to the Elect, for they have maintained the struggle through the unrecorded 
ages. Let the counter fact of their decrease since the advent of Caucasians 
be prudently mentioned by white men, who have been their destroyers by intro- 
ducing their own elements of decay and dissolution. 

Suppose a community of " whites " who had survived the " struggle for life " 
for generations, were for the first time tempted to use intoxicating liquors, 
mixed with poisonous and maddening drugs,— would their power of resistance 
be equal to the emergency? Have "whites" given up drunkenness? 

Diseases introduced by white men have been very destructive among the 
primitive races. Have they been less so among the whites ? The fact that 
they succumb in the deadly struggle is no more damaging to them than to their 
superiors. Let it be noted that we have been struggling for centuries against 
these evils without having yet extinguished them. If we ask the Tlinkets to 
bar them out, we demand of them much more than we have ever required of 
ourselves. 

In what respect are they incapable of maintaining the " struggle for life? '' 
They are a well formed, athletic race, undergoing great hardships, brave and 
independent in spirit, ingenious and apt to learn. They have, in short, all the 
attributes which are indispensable to insure their civilization and progres*'- 
This is apparent by comparison with other tribes and nations who have risen 
in the scale of intelligence. The condition of the Gauls, Teutons and Britons 
was no better when the Romans conquered them, than that of the Hydahs and 
Tlinkets at the present time. The Britons were barbarians, half naked, cruel, 
ignorant and superstitious. The Picts, their neighbors on the north of the 
island, crawled out of their burrows excavated in hill -sides, caught their game, 
Sorged themselves with flesh, sent their wives to bring in what was left, then 
crawled back into their dens to sleep until hunger drove them forth again. 
The Scandinavians as late as the tenth century of the Christian era, lived in 
piles of rocks, and were free-booters and pirates, the terror of the western 
coasts of Europe. Returning from forays laden with plunder remorselessly tak- 
en, and devoting to their blood-stained god the trophies of fiendish fights, they 
displayed some of the worst characteristics of savage life. 

For centuries prior to this period, there were races in America which had 
advanced far beyond the state of barbarism, and who were much more worthy 
of the respect and consideration of the enlightened people of the Old World 
than any portion or all of Europe north of the Alps, during that early period. 
The primitive races which the Spaniards found in Central America and Mexico 
had flourished through centuries, going back probably beyond the time of the 
Roman conquests. They could have conveyed a superior civilization to three- 
fourths of the continent of Europe, and only surpassed in favored localities 
upon the coasts of the Mediterranean Sea, by the Greek and Roman culture, 



A Letter addressed to President Hayes. 59 

The wonder is, that the primitive American civilization ever readier! the 
height it did in the lack of two chief instruments of progress, the use of iron 
and the arts of alphabetical writing — the one to shape and to hold the staples 
and materials, which skilled labor proves to be serviceable; the other to recori 
the advancement of knowledge, and to preserve the items and details of inven- 
tion and discovery. The al)sence of these two instruments from Europe would 
have thrown a pall over that continent as dark as that which enveloped the 
aboriginal tribes of North America. Indeed, all Europe within the period o' 
authentic history, was repeatedly plunged into barbarism. Not a ray of light 
shone from within. The torch of knowledge, the altar-fires of faith, the head- 
lights of culture, were brought from without, kindled and replenished by 
foreign hands, until by slow and painful processes Europe learned to keep what 
had been given, and to multiply her lights into the ilhimination of modern 
society. 

Similar results might have been reached on this continent, if an ocean of 
fire had rolled between the Old World and the New, to keep off the boasted 
civilization of Europe. Bancroft (Native Races, Vol. I) says, "Left alone, the 
nations of America might have unfolded into as bright a civilization as that of 
Europe. They were already well advanced and still rapidly advancing towards 
it when they were so mercilessly stricken down." It is impossible to conjecture 
what those races might have become, if their rights had been respected, or If 
they had had the power to enforce respect. But it is not difficult to conclude 
that if they had been treated, not as wild beasts to be exterminated, but as 
(fellow creatures to be helped, and to confer benefits in return, many of them 
would have been developed into a manhood reflecting credit upon the race, 
and into a culture worthy of the age. 

It is not visionary to suppose that if the European civilization had coalescCf} 
with the Tolto-Aztec on this Continent, the combination would have benefitted 
both by the one exchanging with the other its best and most peculiar qualities ; 
and thus the relics and memorials of pre-historic ages in the New World, de- 
veloped out of its own original stock, and joining in the march of human 
progress, would have been preserved to the eternal honor of the "superior' 
race. 

This were idle musing, were it not that "the dream is not all a dream." 
A tribe of Hydahs or Tlinkets coasting along the shores of the Baltic .^ea a 
thousand years ago, would have been- justified in looking with indifterence 
upon the state of art among Northern Europeans. Their admiration could 
have been excited by one work of art, the sea going vessel, which the Phoeni- 
cians had taught the Scandinavians to make a thousand years.before ; and by 
one metal, which the Tlinkets would have prized above the copper and the 
gold in their own mountains. A knowledge of the use of iron before the 
advent of the Europeans would have made them too formidable for any Rus- 
sian armament that ever floated along their shores. They reached a certain 
degree of advancement long before their country was discovered, and then 
paused. In this they resernble the Asiatic civjlijatjons, for instance, the Hin- 



60" Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

doo, Chinese and Japanese, which reached a dead level, and were thenceforth 
transfixed and immovable. The Alaskans never reached the same point in 
manual arts, because their staples and materials were less abundant, their soil 
and climate less genial, their incentives fewer, their trade was very limited, and 
they were destitute of the iron tool and the recording pen. 

There are Ethnological reasons* for the supposition that the ancestors of the 
Native Races which occupy the coast from the Columbia River to the Aleutian 
Isles, came from Japan. Differing in many respects, yet some existing resem- 
blances are striking and characteristic. Each shows the same desire for im- 
provement, and invites foreign teachers. Although the Japanese excels the 
"American" in variety and elaborateness of manufactures, yet the latter par- 
takes of the ingenuity and skill of the former, and is anxious to adopt new 
styles and customs. This attitude of the people seems to be universal. If 
there be an exception it is found among the chiefs, who might be expected to 
oppose changes through fear of thereby losing their power. Nevertheless, some 
chiefs are fully impressed with the necessity of education in order to save them- 
selves and people. 

Our plan contemplates both secular and religious training. The opinion is 
current, that a religion, in order to find favor in the eyes of the aborigines, 
must first meet some of their material requirements. If it is good, it will 
clothe them better, and feed them better, for these to them are the chiefest 
good in life. 

This opinion prevails among persons who take a secular view of all religions, 
and give little weight, or none at all, to the spiritual nature of any religion. 
Taking this view of it, religion should be introduced as a measure of state 
policy or expediency; for by promoting cleanliness, industry and economy, it 
promotes health, plenty and all the comforts of life. In a similar degree, 
the secular influence of religion is sustained by the principles of Political Econ- 
omy, and should be introduced and advocated on this ground, also. 

Its introduction cannot be consistently opposed by those who take a material- 
istic view of modern progress. It is sometimes confidently asserted that much 
of the civilization of this age is materialistic ; that a large proportion of the 
workers in the manual arts, are materialists; that many engaged in scientific 
pursuits, as well as a considerable number of the " advanced thinkers " in 
literature and philosophy, are the disciples of Comte and Spencer and Mill. 

We would fain attract their support as the magnet attracts iron, to the scheme 
of civilizing the people of Southern Alaska ; fur it contemplates the erection 
of a visible and palpable structure upon a substantial and permanent foundation 
of material good. The countenance of persons who take the most practical 
and even utilitarian views is confidently invited upon their own principles to 
this plan for civilizing these people ; for it promotes the development of the 
Country's Resources, and adds to the Wealth of the Nation, and increases the 
numbers of its intelligent defenders, by the very act of training up a numerous 

'Vide Bancroft, " Native Races:" and Prwell, in "Smithsonian" Publications. 



A Letter addressed to President Hayes. 6r 

class of expert and efficient workinjj men and women — not imported but home- 
bred, bound by inextinguishable ties to their native land, and brought up under 
its irstitutions. 

We shall omit no element of material growth and transformation ; while at 
the same time we intend to convey some knowledge of moral and religious 
principles of a very practical and influential nature. We may be permitted to 
associate these two lines of instruction, not fostering one at the expense of the 
other, but steadily and consistently promoting both — inasmuch as we believe 
that modern civilization has reached its present elevation by the action and 
interaction of the physical and metaphysical. 

An appeal to the Supernatural has always been efficacious in gaining control 
of ignorant minds. It has often been employed for the basest purposes; who 
would forbid its employment for the best? Thereby abstract ideas of morality, 
and spiritual ideas of religion, are gradually introduced, become fixed, and 
remain forever. The appeal is to the moral nature of man, which though hid- 
den and seeming to be extinct, is most real and substantial. 

These abstract ideas are the hidden springs of society. They are the reserved 
forces which are continually drawn upon in the practical aflairs of life. Their 
regenerating power keeps society from decay and exhaustion, by supplying the 
demands created by the extraordinary pressures and temptations of the times. 
Whatever moral support advanced thinkers find in their speculations, it is quite 
certain that ordinary men and women require the knowledge of "abstract 
morality," and a serious belief in it, in order to pass through life with satisfac- 
tion and honor. 

And since it can be shown that a supernatural religion is the only religion 
that is worth naming as drawing its motives from the unseen world, we propose 
to introduce both morality and Christianity among the Primitive Races, as 
containing the conservative principles upon which modern progress moves and 
civilization rests. 

We do not, however, propose to train these people after any abstract or 
foreign pattern. We have no pet theories to exemplify. We shall meet them 
on the lines of their own aptitudes and characteristics, and carry them forward 
thereon, to take their place among the skilled producers of our country, and 
to swell the ranks of its intelligent and law-abiding citizens. 

This scheme is neither chimerical nor impracticable. The success which has 
followed educational effiDrts among native tribes in British Columbia, warrant 
our belief that with some variation in aim and management, we shall not fail. 
Our school among the Stahkeens at Fort Wrangel, carried on more than two 
years and still continuing, is also an earnest of complete success, as well as 
expanding usefulness. Many of the children have already learned to read and 
write. A very marked improvement is noticeable in dress, manners and mor- 
ality. The influence of the teachers is also manifet among the Stahkeen 
people at Fort Wrangel ; a large majority of them having forsaken their ancient 
mode of life, and having conformed to the customs of white people. They 
have given up sorcery and their belief in polytheism ; and they display a 



62 Sketches of an Excursion to Southetn Alaska. 

morality which will compare very favorably with that of the "whites" by whom 
they are surrounded. They have also in a single year doubled the amount of 
land which they cultivate. A careful observation of them under circumstances 
very opportune for arriving at correct conclusions, bears evidence to the depth 
and sincerity of their desire to adjust themselves to the new order of things 
which they discover to be inevitable, and to which they expect to conform. 

This attitude of the people, which is maintained with almost perfect unani- 
mity, finds an illustration in the existing desire for schools and churches. It 
is a remarkable fact that the Hydahs in the Prince of Wales Archipelago, and 
the Tlinkets occupying the country several hundred miles west of 54° 40" the 
boundary line, without a single exception, concur in the same earnest request. 
In support of this fact, I cite the testimony of Gen. Howard in his published 
Reports ; Hon. J. G. Swan, U. S. Commissioner, Commander Beardslee, U. 
S. Navy, and a number of the old intelligent residents of the Territory. 

This petition is not only unanimous, but importunate. It is expressed on all 
occasions of formal conference with "the whites." The writer recalls nothing 
in his interviews with these people, which impressed him more than the hungry 
and searching look which emphasized their request for teachers. Theirs is not 
therefore, a posture of stolid apathy, which needs to be stimulated into activity. 
The occasion for "artifice or argument" is passed. Vaguely, but certainly, 
they see that the "whites" possess powers which they do not — advantages 
which they covet — and which they believe may l^e acquired by themselves. 

Let us not be too critical. Admitting that they have no adequate views of 
the benefits of education, we must allow that they have an eminently practical 
estimate ; and in this respect, no doubt, equal to the average found among 
"the whites" — with this difference, that they long for a good, hitherto beyond 
their reach, but which is now their only means of preservation. 

Hence their cry for it comes up from the depths of their convictions, like 
the groimd-swell of their own seas. It is evoked by the necessities of their 
situation, which demand of them the abolition of the old, and the adoption of 
the new. It is the cry of the crew whose craft is nearing the breakers, or 
drifting helplessly out to sea. We who stand on the shore or on the heights 
above them, cannot regard their fate with indifference, neither should their cry 
for lisfht be as the sigh of the wind in our ears, under the impression that they 
know not the value ot the light, nor understand what things it reveals. How 
much more than they do we comprehend the value of knowledge? We are 
only a few steps in advance of them. That cry sweeping the shores of Alaska, 
and waking the echoes of its mountains, is like the cry that crossed the Aegean 
Sea, and smote the ear of Saul of Tarsus. \ 

Notwithstanding the absence of precedent or hint of the self-initiated ascent 
of nation or tribe from chaos to cosmos — from primitive ignorance to civiliza- 
tion ; yet here we have an illustration of some instinct or inward prompting 
toward a higher state. Other instances of like nature have occurred. The 
Nez Perces sent a delegation across the Continent from the unexplored wilds 
of northern Idaho, asking for light. That people had seen the benefits of 



A Letter addressed to President Mayes. d'l, 

civilization to a very limited extent only ; and a few leaders among them braved 
the perils of the trackless wilderness in the attempt to secure the superior good, 
hut now we see an entire people, the inhabitants of the labyrinthine archipel- 
agoes and continental shores of Southern Alaska, lifting up their voices and 
stretching forth their hands for help. 

It belongs to this great and powerful nation, which is the acknowledged 
supporter of the rights of man, to extend the blessings of civilization to the 
aborigines of the continental territories which have fallen within our bounda- 
ries. Once they might be counted by millions. Their diminution has provided 
room for our countrymen. And yet had they been guided to lay hold of the 
elements of civilized life, and their fingers taught to mould and manipulate 
them, the much vexed Indian Question had been long settled, and quiet and 
prosperous communities would have added to the national wealth, reflected 
credit upon national statesmanship, and forestalled forever the dishonor which 
now stains our annals in consequence of the utterly unjust and rapacious treat- 
ment of these ignorant and depressed people. 

Fair proofs and an abundance of them, altogether producing a tide of evidence 
overwhelming all dissent, are at hand. But unfortunately in the dust and din 
which rise in the discussion of a vexed question, the judgments of many are so 
confused that they are incapable of forming a correct conclusion. Nevertheles 
these proofs are derived from palpable and visible data, showing the materia i 
advancement of the Indians, who have been left to prosecute the simpler arts 
of civilized life without the disturbances and agitations created by the threats 
and intrusions of lawless "white" men. 

Among these proofs I cite a few within the circle of my personal knowledge, 
which are as incontrovertible as that the harvests, which are just being reaped, 
are the outcome of foregoing tillage. I refer with confidence to the Indians o 
the Warm Springs Reservation ; and remind you of the loyalty, courage, and 
skill of the band of scouts formed among them, who were the rea 
conquerors in the Modoc War. Their gardens, farms and dwellings bea 
witness to their capacity for progress and self-support. They illustrate two 
great principles in Political Economy. They are both producers and con- 
sumers. 

I also designate the Yakima Tribes, who have made the most substantia 
improvement, which I affirm on the same visible and palpable grounds. This 
conclusion would not be doubted if white men had been content simply to le 
the Yakimas alone. 

A similar confusion is spread over the present condition and prospects of the 
Nez Perces. Yet a creditable advancement is being made among them, which 
needs only tranquility and fair treatment in order to produce results which wil 
be satisfactory to the most exacting, as they are now in a very high degree 
satisfactory to all reasonable people. 

One more illustration must suffice. Only a few years have passed since the 
appointment of suitable teachers among the Puyallup Indians, and we have since 
stationed a missionary among them. Formerly their ignorance and thriftless- 



64 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

ness excited only contempt or hostility among the whites. They, like other 
Indians, would not work, except when hunger compelled them. A great 
change has taken place. Now the men are continously employed in various 
departments ; and the farmers and hop-raisers in the valley testify that they are 
a better dependence than the ordinary run of so-called white laborers. The 
women are useful in kitchen and laundry work ; and the children are as busily 
employed as the boys and girls of white settlers. Gen. J, W, Sprague, Sup- 
erintendent of the Northern Pacific Railroad, formerly skeptical concerning the 
improvement of Indians in general, takes pleasure in stating the results of his 
own observations on this point. In constructing the railroad through the 
Puyallup Valley, he favored the employment of these Indians and watched 
their habits. The uniform testimony of the overseers was without any equivo- 
cation, delivered in favor of the Indian workmen, in points of diligence, 
promptness, and endurance. They justly attributed their ability to do hard- 
work to their temperate habits. But I remember when they were a drunken 
set, besotted by brutalized '"white" men. At the camps and mills, in fishing 
and on their own farms, or in the fields of others, they are as usefully employed as 
any class of white men in the same circumstances, and their habits of industry 
and average morality will bear compjtrison with that of any class in the country. 
All this has been brought about by two or three causes: first, ftindanietttal. 
Instruction in common school branches, in moral and religious duty, and in 
the most useful manual arts. Second, auxUiaiy. The Government's just and 
humane policy culminating in the land endowment, a homestead for each fam- 
ily, thereby encouragmg thrift, economy, and provision for the future, with the 
near prospect of citizenship. 

Here is the solution of the vexed Indian Question. It is expressed in a few 
words, but they contain all that is vital, like the oxygen in the air we breathe. 
This plan, faithfully executed, provides a safe, speedy, adequate and economical 
remedy for all the difficulties, and removes them out of the way forever. Let 
intelligent and benevolent men and women study it, and then make their influ- 
ence felt in supporting it; Other once-promising plans for managing the 
al)origines have been tried, and without due effect. An opportunity unem- 
barassed by many of the occasions which create disturbances and provoke 
hostilities in the States, now offers itself in Alaska. 

May we not ask for the introduction of the new plan, which will conserve 
all interests, and maintain the national honor? It is very simple. It provides 
first of all for the introduction of law, and courts to execute it. And in this 
provision every inhabitant of Alaska should be treated with equal justice and 
held equally amenable. This will exact upon the administrators of the law a 
due regard for equal rights, in the admirable language of the Constitution of 
the United States, without regard to race or color, or previous condition of 
servitude. The faithful execution of this simple provision will destroy the most 
fruitful source of difficulties between white settlers and the Indians. 

The sense of wrong embittered by injustice, without hope of legal redress, 
in the Indian mind, and emboldening the "white" transgressor, has led to 
many an Indian outbreak, and expensive and bloody war. The facts upon 



A Letter addressed to President Hayes. 65 

which these conclusions are based are indisputable, and so notorious as to need 
no rehearsal here. Since, however, this policy has never succeeded, we are 
justified in the adoption of another and more promising expedient. 

The locality is highly favorable for it. This distant Territory presents very 
few attractions to men of businesrj, and none to "white" settlers. The "whites" 
who dwell there, or make voyages thither, or transact business with them, all 
concur in asking for the introduction of municipal regulations, and with one 
voice demand that all classes of inhabitants shall be held amenable to the same 
law, and that they shall be treated with the same justice and equity. 

Another provision for the welfare of the future generations of Alaska, should 
no longer be neglected by the Government. We refer to education in common 
schools. No defense of primary educati>-)n is needed at this day for the "white' 
children of fhe United States. Can any sound reason for withholding it from 
other children of our country be given? We assume that the educational policy 
of the United States rests upon an impregnable basis, and hence infer that the 
expediency of its introduction in Alaska will not be seriously disputed. The 
capabilities of the native Alaskans justify this provision for their enlightenment. 
They petition for it with some just appreciation of the benefit, with earnest 
and persistent desire, and with entire unanimity. 

The suggestion of this provision is sustained by a condition of popular sen- 
timent unparallelled in any other part of our country. The parties just referred 
to, as sustaining the application of the before mentioned provision, are equally 
as favorable to the introduction of schools and churches among the natives; 
and their unanimity in the advocacy of this provision is quite as great, if not 
as earnest. 

There lies before me the expression of these opinions in answer to a series of 
questions addressed to leading men of various pursuits, who are residents of 
Alaska, or acquainted with its condition, and its wants; and their views are 
reflected in many places in this Report, and concentrated in the two provisions 
above mentioned. 

But there remains another consideration. The Territory of Alaska is neither 
Isankrupt nor poverty-stricken. It costs nothing worthy of naming, to sustain 
our sovereignty over it. Its inhabitants receive no stipends. Its natives re- 
ceive no annuities. And yet it pays into the United States Treasury over three 
hundred thousand dollars ($300,000) per annum, a gross sum of more than 
four millions of dollars (4,000,000), since its purchase. 

We humbly ask for the appropriation of a very small portion of the annual 
income derived from Alaska, in order to extend the reign of just and equitablel 
laws over all its communities, and to visit its various families with the benign 
influences of modern civilization. 

If these consummate facts are without avail, no eloquence can strengthen our 
appeal ; no reasoning can lend it conviction ; no philanthropy can incline or 
persuade. We confidently commit the case to the judgment and conscience of 
the American people, in the august capacity of the (Government of the United 
States. 

Submitted, with the highest respect, by your fellow citizen, 
Portland, Orego.n. A, L. LINDSLEY, 



66 Sketchei of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 



REPORT ON ALASKA.— NO. VI. 



EXl'LANATORV. 



The following is a part of the Executive Committee's Report, made to the Synod of the Col- 
umbia, at its last meeting, Oct. 1880. It belongs here, in the historical order of events. 

The work of Christian civilization among Aborigines within the bounds o 
the Synod, still engages the care and oversight of the Committee. 

The suspension of our work at Sitka naturally invited the intrusion ol other 
denominations into that field. The situation became critical. No missionary 
was found at the East. On the recommendation of J. V. Milligan, who was a 
classmate of Rev. G. W. Lyons, the Sitka mission was tendered to the latter 
gentleman, then in California, and whose work there was commended by the 
Rev. T. Frazer. About the same time, the school-teacher Miss Austin, was 
commissioned by the Board. 

The Rev. G. W. Lyons went on in April, and spent a month with the Rev. 
S. H. Young, acquiring a store of information, derived from the experience of 
our Missionary at Fort Wrangel. They circumnavigated Prince of Wales Island, 
the largest of the Alexander group. They were hospitably received by the 
natives, who expressed the earnest desire for teachers and missionaries, — thus 
confirming the unanimity elsewhere maintained in petitions for these institutions. 

The quarters occupied by our Sitka mission are held by no secure tenure. 
The oral permission of the naval Commander obtained admittance, and upon 
that rests the present occupancy. It would be wise to purchase the old hos- 
pital and adjacent grounds. The building is large, and can be made very 
serviceable, and the grounds are already used for gardens. Meanwhile we 
should be put in possession by a written order from the Government. We 
'hear from trustworthy sources, that both the teacher and missionary are 
'ndustriously employed. They began under very unfavorable circumstan-ces 
and the school still lacks facilities. One of my informants expressed his 
surprise in decided terms, at the attempt of the great Presbyterian Church 
to introduce itself with such scant outfit and such miserly supplies. And we 
add, that the occasions for the surprise are well-founded. 

There is a class of the population of Sitka, for whom some provision of edu- 
cation should be made. I refer to the children of Russians and half-breeds. 
A school was organized for them more then a year ago. Commander Beards- 
lee of the U. S. S. Jamestown, and Mrs. Beardslee, his wife, have taken an 
active part in this school. Their removal from Sitka leaves the school in dan- 
ger of being disbanded. If it be possible to find a trust -worthy and capable 
manager at Sitka, for this school, it would be better for us to leave it in such 
hands ai present, and until our Mission can be reinforced. 

Rev. S. H. Young has explored the coast from the southern extremity of 
Alaska to Cross Sound and Chilkat river, which are situated northward of 
Sitka. He has carefully taken the census of the tribes and villages. By his 
figures, the estimates of population are still too large. These have been reduced 



Report to the Synod of the Columbia, i8Sl. 67 

from time to time to insignificant numbers, compared with the vastness of the 
Territory. The scarcity of population shows still more clearly, the risk of giv- 
ing too much notoriety to the claims of that field. It is believed that the Tlin- 
ket tribes are increasing in population, and that they are not excelled by any 
native tribes, in physical vigor or intellectual capacity, and equaled only by the 
Hydahs of Prince of Wales Island, among whom also we intend to establish a 
mission. 

But the more pressing need at present, is the opening among the Chilkats. 
They are the most numerous of the Tlinket tribes. Mr. Young has gone among 
them to meet an emergency, and to make arrangements for introducing our 
work as soon as a missionary can be found to take possession. The Chilkat 
tribe is L cated at the head of Lynn canal, on a river which penetrates into re 
gions unexplored, and inhabited by people of the Tinneh stock. A mission 
among the Hoonyas should be undertaken. This tribe consists of about 800 
souls almost free from "white" vices or diseases, and very desirous to receive 
instruction and adopt the customs of civilized life. 

We see no reason for changing our recommendations pertaining to the dis- 
tribution of Missions. They are now in operation at Wrangel and Sitka. 
Other localities selected, are among the Chilkats, another among the Hoon- 
yas, and the fifth among the Hydas. 

By the favor of Providence, I was enabled to present the cause of the In- 
dians in an unembarrassed and familiar manner to President Hayes. After my 
first interview, I addressed to him a letter on the subject of "The Civilization 
of the Native Alaskans."* It has been circulnted to a limited extent. It con- 
tains a plea for the education and salvation of the aborigines of the whole 
country. The published Minutes of the Synod of Columbia, I also placed in 
his hands ; and I have the satisfaction of knowing that his views and ours on 
essential points are identical, and that he expressed them in a public speech a; 
Forest Grove. I spent the day with the President, and am confident of his 
hearty support in the effort to secure Congressional appropriation for schools in 
.\laska. I was not prepared to press a petition for the return of Joseph's Band 
to the reservation in Idaho, for the single reason that they would not be safe 
from outrages which would be inflicted in retaliation for real oi fancied griev- 
ances, during the Nez Perce outbreak. 

I will only add that it is high time for this great nation to show mercy to 
the aborigines whom they are driving to despair and madness, and to introduce 
a tranquilizing and generous policy. Whatever any citizen or association can 
do to promote this change should be done without delay ; and I therefore earn- 
stly invoke the aid of the brethren that our influence may reach men in power 
in a direct course, and under the signal favor of Divine Providence. 

*This Letter forms No. V, which precedes this. 



68 Sketches of on Excursuni io Southern Alaska. 

APPENDIX TO NO. VI. 

Reasons for Locating an Industrial Home and School for B oys at Fort Wrangel 

and Sitka. 

1. The McFarland Industrial Hcmie for Girls is situated at Fort Wrangel. 
It has already twenty-eight inmates, the support of each being guaranteed by a 
separate ladies' society, or by individuals, so long as she shall remain in the 
Home. These girls are being instructed in household arts, as well as the 
principles of a common education. They will be fitted to be the wives of 
intelligent, christian men. They should not leave the Home until they are 
honorably and filly married. But it will be very difficult to find suitable hus- 
bands for them, unless we have also a training school for Indian boys. And 
to marry them to men beneath them, in point oi education or morality, would 
tend to defeat the very purpose for which the Home was founded, and plunge 
them back into barbarism and misery. The boys' school, located at Sitka, can- 
not supply the place of one at Fort Wrangel. The two places are a hundred 
and sixty miles apart, communication is infrequent, and the voyage by canoe 

difficult. The inmates of the two institutions cannot be brought together 
conveniently ; and there would remain only the alternatives of building another 
girls' industrial home at Sitka and another boys' training school at Fort Wran- 
gel — or compelling our educated and chiustianized young men and women to 
marry inferior and profligate companions. Were a boys' school to be founded 
at Fort Wrangel, the two institutions would be supplementary to each other ; 
and thus, in due time, christian homes would be established. 

2. Fort Wrangel is the gathering point for many of the tribes. The 
Indians in their voyages up and down the coast find this, at present, the most 
convenient place for rest and trade. At times, every tribe in the archipelago 
is represented there. In this way, the McF^arland Home thus numbers among 
its inmates girls of the Stahkeen, Sitka, Chilcat, Auk, Takoo, Hanega, Ton- 
gas, Hydah and Simpsian tribes. The boys' school, located at Sitka, will 
gather into its fold representatives of some of these tribes. The aim of these 
schools is to provide skilled and educated workmen who can instruct the various 
tribes in the mechanical arts, as well as in the elements of a christian education. 
Every young man should go forth from the institution to his own tribe, fitted 
to be a teacher in the full sense of that word ; and thus the whole archipelago 
and adjacent mainland be enlightened and civilized. On account of its loca- 
tion and the influence of its missions. Fort Wi angel can gather into an institu- 
tion of this class, more tribes than any other locality. 

3. The Indians of Fort Wrangel, by reason of their superior advancement, 
would respond to the call for students of such a school, and support it steadily. 

4. There is, near Fort Wrangel, a tract of three hundred acres of tillable 
land already cultivated, in part. This can be purchased very cheap, and cul- 
tivated by the boys of the school, and enough stock and vegetables raised to 
supply both institutions. Thus the boys can be taught agriculture, and the 
expenses of the school met in part at the same time. An available tract of 
land, foi the same purpose, can doubtless be ibund near Sitka. 



Present Condition of the Work, May 7, 1881. 69 

5. The superior organization of the Fort Wrangel mission, its strong force 
and harmony, would give assurance of success to such a school. The mission- 
aries now at P'ort Wrangtd could take charge of the training school for boys, 
and their experience would be very valuable. 

6. The government liuildings at Sitka offer great iuducen^ents to locate a 
training school there. The Russian Hospital, a large building, and the adjacent 
grounds, which are extensive, have been assigned to us for this purpose. Both 
the Sitka and the Wrangel scliools for boys must be fitted up for the purposes 
of instruction outlined in the preceding Reports, and the necessary expenses 
for these purposes ought to be provided by the Government without delay. 
Our plan contemplates the co-education of the sexes to a certain extent. The 
practicability of it is fairly illustrated in the school at Forest Grove, Oregon, 
in which Indian children are gathered from various tribes, some of them from 
Alaska. With its origin and progress the writer is familiar. Its progress is 
very satisfactory, and its prospects are of the most promising nature. This 
school and the one at Carlisle Barracks, both started since the earlier Sketches 
in this pamphlet were written, are complete demonstrations of the positions 
maintained herein. We earnestly, call the attention of philanthropic people, 
to these several positions. 



REPORTS ON ALASKA.— NO. VII. 

Present Condition of the Work, May i, 1881. 

The missionaries in Alaska are much cheered by the immediate prospect of 
accessions to their ranks. Rev. S. Hall V\-ung of Fort Wrangel, has within the 
last two years done a very laborious and successful work of exploration and pre- 
paration for the establishment of missions throughout the whole of south- 
eastern Alaska. He has visited every tril^e, village and almost every fishing 
camp in that region, taking the census, and recording the condition of each 
point, noting its location and natural advantages, conferring with the chiefs 
and preaching the Gospel to the people, and reporting all the facts to the 
Board necessary to their guidance in locating missions. He carefully weighed 
the claims of each point, in order that the most important should be occupied 
first. ' He is able to bear unqualified testimony to the accuracy of the Reports 
of Dr. Lindsley, who visited this Territory in 1S79, under the commission of 
the Board of Home Missions, and to the soundness of views therein expressed. 

In the Fall of 1879 Mr. Young visited tbe tribes in the northern part of the 
archipelago, and recommended that the Chilcats, the largest and most impor- 
tant of these tribes, be supplied with a missionary as soon as possible. The 
Home Board has shown its confidence in his judgment by adopting his recom- 
mendations in each case. A missionary was commissioned for Chilcat in the 
Summer of 1880, but was diverted te another field. In June of that year Mr. 



70 SkfU/ies of an Excursion to Soiithe7-n Alaska. 

Young fitted out, and sent to that tribe as missionary teacher, Mrs. Sarah 
Dickinson, a native of the Tongas trihe — speaking the same language — who 
had been educated at the Fort Wrangel mission. The Board confirmed her 
commission, and she has been laboring very successfully ever since — the 
Chilcats welcoming her warmly, and continuing to send their children to 
her school. 

Last August Mr. Young again visited these Northern tribes, spending some 
time among the Chilcats. He carefully studied the condition of each of the 
four villages of that tribe, and selected a point on a beautiful harbor, accessible 
to all, upon good farming land, and where the Northwest Trading Company 
has its post, as the site for a mission and a new Indian town. He selected a 
site for a church, and made arrangements with the Company, who had the 
lumber on the ground, to build a comfortable house for church and school. 
This the Company agreed to put up inmiediately. This building is now up 
and ready for occupancy. The head men of all these villages pledged them- 
selves to obey the coming missionary, to build a new town of "white man's 
houses," and to Support the school. Thus the mission haS long been located, 
and all is in readiness for the missionary. Rev. Eugene S. Willard, who goes 
up by the June steamer to take charge of that mission, will find a people 
eagerly expecting him, and an open door for the entrance of Christian 
civilization. 

In the Spring of 1880, Mr. Young, accompanied by the Rev. G. W. Lyons, 
the newly appointed missionary to Sitka, made the tour of the Prince of Wales 
group of Islands. He visited all the tribes in that region, taking the census 
and collecting information as before. He located a mission in Cordova Bay, 
selecting a site for another new mission town at a point accessible by four 
Hydah villages, where there was a good water-power, plenty of valuable 
timber, a good anchorage, and ground capable of cultivation. He obtained 
pledges from the head men of all these villages that they would desert their 
present Indian towns, and build a new town on the site selected. He recom- 
mended to the Board that this mission be started upon what is known as the 
Metlakatlah plan : first a sawmill, which will soon pay for itself — the Indians 
readily buying the lumber — the church and school house built by native work- 
men properly directed, then a town of neat and commodious houses, built and 
filled by a population which subscribes to the laws, and conforms to the plans 
of the settlement. The Board adopted Mr. Young's recommendations, and 
now that field is outlined, and ready for a suitable manager to take charge of 
what can be made in a few years an entirely self-supporting plantation. The 
Northwest Trading Company has agreed to erect a post at the site chosen, and 
toput a man in charge who is fully in sympathy with our plans. Thus the four 
central points of Fort Wrangel, Sitka, Chilcat, and Hydah will all be sup- 
plied, and will be working as the nuclei for the gathering together and 
evangelization of the whole archipelago. 

In accordance with the plans outlined in the preceding pages, Mr. Young 

, recommends the Hoonyahs, the large and promising tribe situated on Cross 

Sound, as the next tiibe to be evangelized, either by native teachers educated 



Missions under the Presbytery of Oregon. 71 

in the other missions, or by teachers sent out by the Board. He also visited 
the new mining town of Harrisl)urg, locating and recording a site for a church 
and school house, in case that proves to be a successful mining region. Thus 
all the information necessary to intelligent action, in locating missions and 
advancing the cause of education in that promising region, is already collected, 
and the next step is to enter and occupy. 



CONCLUSION. 

The foregoing "Sketches" show what we are doing, and attempting, for 
the enlightenment of Alaska. They .provide materials towards a complete 
history, yet to be written, and they are accurate. There are other sources of 
information, in manuscripts and occasional publications in newspapers, such 
as letters written prior to 1877, the oiiginal overture to the General Assembly 
of that year, the official statement of the origin of this work, issued by the 
Presbytery of Oregon, together with some data contained in ofticial communi- 
cations, made to the Government of the United States. 

In compliance with requests of persons cognizant with the facts, the "official 
statement" above cited, is here inserted. In the order of time, it should have 
been placed at the beginning. But the suggestions for its publication were not 
made until the first Reports were passing through the press. It was printed in 
the Record of Aug., 1878, and in the Official Report on Alaska, made by 
Hon. Wm. Governeur Morris, Special Agent of United States Treasurery De- 
partment, published by order of Congress. That Report abounds in valuably 
information; but, unfortunately, it is out of print. 



Missions Under the Presbytery of Oregon. 

At the meeting of the Presbytery of Oregon, in session at Astoria, April 3, 
1878, It was ordered that a committee of three be appointed to draw up a min- 
ute embracing \.\i& facts in connection with the history of tbe development of 
missions under the care of the presbytery, having special reference to the work 
in Alaska ; and that the same be forwarded to the Secretaries of the Board of 
Home Missions. Said minute, when approved by presbytery, to be engrossed 
on the records. 

In accordance with the foregoing, the following is an official statement: 

In the year 1869, when Secretary Seward was returning from his visit to 
Alaska, Rev. A. L. Lindsley, D. D., of the First Presbyterian Church of 
Portland. Oreg., met him at Victoria, and by careful enquiry gained much in- 
formation concerning the social, moral, and religious condition of the resident 
Indian tribes. 



7 2 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska. 

From the time of this interview Dr. Lindsley made persistent efforts to 
secure the establishing of evangelical missions among this neglected people. 
Frequent interviews were held with government officers and officials, in order 
to secure protection for teachers and schools. In 1872 General Canby expressed 
a favorable opinion of the proposed work, and promised his influence in secur- 
ing government aid. In 1875 General O. O. Howard rendered valuable assist- 
ance, and by co-operation with Dr. Lindsley urged the matter before public 
attention by newspaper articles and much correspondence. The Boards of the 
church were importuned, but found no one to undertake this work. An over- 
ture was carefully prepared and sent up to the Assembly of 1877, in which the 
interests of this mission field were urged upon the attention of this body, but 
through the advice of "friends" it failed to come formally before the Assembly, 
and so proved abortive. Up to this time failure seemed to attend every effort, 
although "the appeals which had come from civilians, military officers, and 
the aborigines were" very urgent. 

In the spring of 1877, the Board of Foreign Missions commissioned Mr. J. 
C. Mallory, jr., for the wurk among the Nez Perce Indians of Idaho, but that 
field was supplied when Mr. Mallory reached Portland. This seemed a provi- 
dential opening of the way for beginning active work in Alaska. In May, at 
Dr. Lindsley's expense, Mr. Mallory was furnished with necessary means to 
enter the field at once, explore the ground, and take charge of a small school 
already opened at Fort Wrangel. He visited Sitka and P'ort Wrangel and 
the intervening regions, and very industriously prosecuted the work. He as- 
sumed the responsibility of the school, and employed Philip Mackay, a native 
convert, to assist. The work was progressing encouragingly when Mr. Mal- 
lory, having accepted a government appointment in Arizona, was obliged to 
leave the ground. Mrs. McFarland, a member of the First Presbyterian 
church of Portland, u woman of " large and successful experience in frontier 
work," was secured to fill the vacancy; and she carried on the work without 
serious interruption. On the' eve of Mrs. McFarland's departure for Alaska, 
Dr. Sheldon Jackson, having arrived at Portland on a visit, and being desir- 
ous of seeing the regions beyond, acted as an escort, going up and returning 
by the same trip of the mail steamer. Under Mrs. McFarland's supervision 
the school became very prosperous. In a short time it doubled in nuftibers; 
larger accommodations were necessary, and the success of the mission proven. 
Up to October 22, 1877, about .f6oo of necessary expenses had been incurred 
in assuming the payment of salaries, house rents, school furniture, and fitting 
out the parties engaged in the work — all of which was undertaken by individ- 
ual enterprise, and without the aid of the Boards of the church, the pastor of 
the Presbyterian church at Portland assuming the entire responsibility. 

At this point, when the enterprise was established, the Board of Home 
Missions assumed the charge and the money expended. 

The committee cannot refrain from calling the attention of the secretaries of 
the board to a quotation which appeared in the Presbyterian Monthly Record 
of December, 1877 (top of page 356), by which it appears to the public an 



Missions under the Presbytery of Oregofi. 73 

easy thing "to pass on to Alaska and locate a mission at l'\)rt Wrangel." In 
the cause of justice to all parties concerned, two things ought not to he over- 
looked: First, the mission was already /(srato/ at Fort Wrangel when the above- 
mentioned passing on took place; and, seconsl, the locating of this mission is 
the result of several years of weary watching and waiting, amid persistent 
effort, fervent prayers, and a strength of faith that was manifest in no small 
amount of expended dollars and cents. 

E. N. CONDIT. 
Chairi/mn 0/ Committee and Stated Clerk. 



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